Solar Suitcase

[Skillet]

I recently purchased a solar suitcase on Amazon for my travels. I had looked at the Renogy 100w suitcase for $250 when I came across the Eco-Worthy 120w for $235. I figured for cheaper and a few more watts I'd go with Eco. I used it this past weekend on an overnight metal detecting trip (pics to be posted on that later) and it worked fantastic. The supports for the legs are definitely cheap and weak but I handled them with care. I would recommend this suitcase if anyone's in the market for one.
http://www.amazon.com/ECO-WORTHY-Portab ... ge_o00_s00

[SMan]

So I see these have alligator clips. I am assuming I could use the same connection to my batteries as I do with my Battery Tender?

[Skillet]

I would imagine so, but I don't know much about these things. The alligator clips worked and fit perfectly around the posts. I had to leave the side compartment unlatched so the wires wouldn't get pinched.

[SMan]

I would imagine so, but I don't know much about these things. The alligator clips worked and fit perfectly around the posts. I had to leave the side compartment unlatched so the wires wouldn't get pinched.

Thanks. Currently when using my Battery Tender I lock one side of the compartment and run the cord on the other. I plan to figure a way to run a permanent connection so I can keep the compartment locked and not crimp the wires. Either a hole underneath or a notch in the door.

[General Snafu]

I would imagine so, but I don't know much about these things. The alligator clips worked and fit perfectly around the posts. I had to leave the side compartment unlatched so the wires wouldn't get pinched.

Thanks. Currently when using my Battery Tender I lock one side of the compartment and run the cord on the other. I plan to figure a way to run a permanent connection so I can keep the compartment locked and not crimp the wires. Either a hole underneath or a notch in the door.

If you run the extension cord out over the side of the drawer and then straight down, it will come out under the coach and the drawer will close without pinching the cord because there is a fair amount of clearance between the drawer and the body on the ends. Good luck.

[Skillet]

Thanks both for the great ideas. So far only used it once on a farm populated only by cows but at some point I'll be around people!

[deppstein]

So, as some of you know, I have been working on finding the best way (for me) to be able to charge my electric bicycles (Two Copenhagen Wheels) while boon docking via solar. I can't put solar on the roof (space reserved for canoe or two kayaks), so have decided to go with a portable kit. Zamp is the most likely--either 160 or 200 watts. The closed (travel) dimensions of these kits are:
160- 20"x39.5"x1.5"
200-27"x40"x3"

Has anyone found a good way to carry these panels? I've thought of mounting on the back bumper (flush against the rear hatch). Any other ideas? And what suggestions do you all have for securing the screw eyes I need to hold them (bungie cords) to the body of my Rig?

David

[Blue~Go]

I carry two "lightweight" (what they used to call flexible) 100 watt panels. They are about 21" x 42" x 1/8" each (although the little junctyion box protrudes another 3/8" or so). I actually bought them for another purpose but then when it was determined that they were likely to fail if used without , ventilation on the back (i.e. placing them directl on a surface), I realized that other use would not be a good fit.

I knew portable panels would be great with the Chinook (I like to camp in the shade!), but just couldn't think of where to carry them. I didn't want them on the outside for various reasons (wear and tear, theft, general crap-on-the-back-edness). As I remember it they would have fit on the forward wall of the bathroom, but I didn't really want them there. Then I realized they would fit just perfectly behind the driver's seat back - between it and the couch. Et voilà!

I had saved the very slim/padded cardboard box that the panels came in, so I have used that to keep them from flopping (I'm sure that's not necessary for a rigid suitcase). I have the box tied to the seat with thin line that you cannot feel. That, of course, is a mock up I'd like to sew a padded, Sunbrella (or similar fabric) case for them. Don't see any reason to carry them elsewhere (unless I had a toad or trailer along).

So... perhaps that's an option.

BG

PS: Maybe if you have the original couch/back they'd fit between it and the wall? Perhaps opened out so as to be thinner?

[deppstein]

Blue--I too have thought about behind the driver's seat...or, passenger seat for that matter (I have dinette model, so between seat back and dinette back). But decided it won't work for me for the following reasons:

--Behind driver's seat floor is now taken up with my new Xantra Prowatt SW 1000 pure sine inverter. I am placing it there because a) nice short run and easy access to battery bank and b) because it is conveniently out of the way, yet accessible for me to easily plug in the power cord that runs through fire wall on passenger side and up to front grill where it can be used to charge the Wheels. The panels, depending on which size I get, weigh between 34-47 pounds,,,so I don't feel good about them sitting on the inverter.

--Behind passenger seat is now taken up with our atlas/map holder, which I just moved from behind the driver's seat (to make room for the inverter). We also often recline the passenger seat back far enough so that it meets the back of the dinette bench...so really no way to put them back there.

--Behind the couch...yes, could do this...BUT, a) I'm not excited about having to lift them out every time we go to bed and b) the space is already taken by our deflated thermarest-type sleeping pads (self-inflating kind) that we put over the jack-knifed couch and dropped dinette table (larger than queen size) for sleeping. We find that set up really comfortable for sleeping.

--Also thought about putting them flat in the top front over-cab storage. Room, I think, but again lifting up and down feels like a pain.

So, that has taken me to the back number, to left of door-in front of storage compartment. Resting on bumper, secured with bungie cords using screw eyes or eye bolts through the body of the rig (figure if they can do that for the handle that is by the back door, I ought to be able to do that in three more places for the eyes to hold bungies.

Hence, my question about putting those suckers into the Rig...want to see/hear if anyone else has done that, and how it went. I imagine that some of you have done same for solar install on roof. So far, I have avoided putting any holes in the shell.

David

[Blue~Go]

Oh I see. I think I misunderstood "in the rig" to be the solar panels in the rig. But you are asking how to mount fasteners to the fiberglass shell. I can give you some ideas, because it's similar to boats.

1) Maybe this is a bit "far out," but something like Sea Suckers with the ring tops you can tie to (these are ultra powerful suction cups). I have not used these myself, but many boaters do.

2) If you do want to put a mount point on the shell, then I would look for something that has some faying surface. In other words, some sort of base that you can get some bedding compound under. A simple eye bolt doesn't really have any place to put bedding compound. I'd also want stainless or chromed bronze (plain bronze is nicer on boats, but the Chinook isn't really a bronze type of look, IMO). So, I'd look to the boating world. Since any stainless should be plenty strong, 316 is better than 304 (more corrosion resistant). But either would do. Here are some ideas (I don't like things like rings that can flap around when not in use):

http://www.sea-dog.com/groups/1408-rece ... chor-point

http://www.sea-dog.com/groups/1423-eye- ... h-shoulder

http://www.sea-dog.com/groups/1442-diamond-eye-plate

http://www.sea-dog.com/groups/1443-oblong-eye-plate

http://www.sea-dog.com/groups/1256-tie-off-eye-plate

Sea Dog is a decent-stuff marine hardware company. They have a large selection. There are fancier things like Schaefer removable deck rings, but they are much more expensive (nothing wrong with that if it's what you want). Perko is another known brand, and there are others. Marine Deck Hardware is the general category you'd be looking for. Main thing is to make sure it will handle the load angle you will be placing on it (not that it's a huge amount, but the consequences of it coming loose could be fatal), and that you can bed it properly to avoid leaks. If you have a local West Marine store, you could lay hands on some of this stuff (albeit at a cost $$). I typically buy from Fisheries Supply (west coast), or Defender, Jamestown Distributors, or Hamilton Marine (east coast), if I'm not in a location with a local chandlery. If you need to buy fasteners separately, McMaster Carr has a decent selection of 316 stainless, oval head, and other things that can be the devil to find at the corner store (and they have fiberglass/GRP board).

As far as mounting, it's by far easier if you can access the back side. Of course the shower is there, but you do have access via the large locker hatch (and/or maybe behind the shower hatch, except I think that was moved to the side by your era?). The idea is that you want to put some sort of backing plate there, and a washer/nut. Not "just a pointy screw." (They don't hold all that well in fiberglass.) For a relatively light load, with loads in shear, a fender washer may be fine. Otherwise, a metal, fiberglass board (McMaster Carr is a good source), or plywood backing plate are other common choices. I'd stay away from cutting board or Starboard type plastic backing plates. It creeps under load (and doesn't take sealants well, not that that matters on the back). For something larger/heavier I'd go for a longer backing plate perhaps spanning both of the upper hardware pieces (vs. washers).

If there is already some coring or backing in the area, then your plan can be adjusted.

If you can't access the back side, there are other ways, but if you can, no need to type another "wall." If you find that you cannot get to the back side, then we can noodle the other ways.

I like butyl tape (GOOD butyl tape, of which these days "Bed It" (sold by a sailor) is all I can vouch for) for a mechanically fastened item such as this. But other things could work too. If you are going to use a "caulk" type sealant, I'd go with 3M 4000 (polyether) because polyurethane will yellow in UV. Not that you are going to caulk around the outside of the backing plate (heaven forbid ), but there is often a tiny bit you can see peeking out around the edge anyway. 3M 4000 will "cure" and won't give you any ongoing ooze like butyl can.

BG