Toph1170 wrote: May 14th, 2025, 3:05 pm
1-If I am replacing the positive with 4 awg can I just use the existing 8awg white wire? If not (as it is recommended to have pos/neg same gauge), then
- My original wire was a 6 AWG, as that is what it really should be for the max 45 Amp charger/converter.
- The Positive and Negative don't have to be the same size, though they usually are.
- What is required is that the smallest wire being used at any point has capacity to handle the max current possible, and preferably handle it with no more than a 3% drop over the length (pos+neg) of wiring, battery to charger/panel and back.
Toph1170 wrote: May 14th, 2025, 3:05 pm
2-is it ok to abandon the existing and replace with 4 gauge or will that cause problems?
- The existing white wire (6 AWG for me, and specified by the original 45 Amp Charger/Converter and Distribution Panel as below for Lug C and D in lower right corner), can be left. It goes to the frame as a return path to the battery, but that return path is no longer required when you have another wire going direct to the battery.
- Note all the DC stuff (lights, fridge, furnace fan) are getting positive wires from the distribution panel and using a return negative path via the frame. That seems to be the standard for RV's, which is probably why the dist panel was using a frame return path, too.
- Note that the frame is a large piece of metal, much larger than the wires, so it has much less voltage loss over the distance. When I added some new USB and DC outlets in the overhead compartments, I added new pos and neg wires to the dist panel, as it was easier laying sets of 2 wires in the same place, than having one go to the panel and the neg going to the frame. But because of this, I did use larger wires because that return path over the wire has more voltage loss than a return path over the frame.
- I moved and rewired my batteries when switching to Lithium, putting in direct neg to the batteries, leaving that same 6 AWG to frame leftover.
- Then when I added my Inverter, besides needing a positive and negative to the batteries, it also requires a wire to the frame from its chassis (using that to bond AC neutral to ground when inverting, the frame being AC ground when not connected to shore). I reused that original 6 AWG wire to the frame that was left over. It is probably a bit too small, given the size of the inverter to battery wires, but would normally not be used, and also I almost never come close to the capacity of my inverter.
Toph1170 wrote: May 14th, 2025, 3:05 pm
3-so its ok to connect negative to chassis and not negative battery terminal?
- Yes, as discussed above, it is just the standard in RV's to have a wire from battery to dist panel, and a return negative through the frame. Probably to get lower voltage loss.
- On the other hand, returning directly to the battery is also fine -
so long as the battery does still have its own wire directly to the frame. That is required for the return path of all the DC appliances/loads.