Chinook RV

Hello all
After a couple of years working to make a Ford van into a camper I finally said "screw it, I'm just buying a camper." Most of the time I'm boondocking and just need a bed and room for my stuff, but I retired a year ago and as I start spending more time on the road a few more creature comforts started sounding appealing. Some of the new RVs on the Transit and Sprinter chassis are really nice but way more money than I wanted to spend, and after spending a bunch of time looking at what was available on the used market, the Chinook kept rising to the top of my options. My biggest concern was the age of these things. Good maintenance goes a long way toward extending the life of them, but rubber ages and parts start getting harder to find. But a few months ago I bought a 98 Concourse with 50k miles. It had good records and was really clean and dry underneath, but shortly after getting it home I discovered damage in the back that had caused a leak and water damage on the bottom of the cabinets from under the stove all the way to the back of the camper. So I'm already learning how this thing is put together and replacing some of the MDF with plywood.

So as I start customizing this thing to fit my needs you will probably see me popping up from time to time to draw on your experiences.

Thanks in advance

Rick
Cincinnati. Oh

Welcome aboard, and looking forward to reading about your adventures in Chinook modification.

That leak sounds unusual. Was it caused by damage from outside or inside?

Kev

Hi Rick, and welcome!

I had a Ford camper van before my Chinook. They are both nice in their own ways, aren't they? But you can really "walk around" in the Chinook; it's especially nice in weather that keeps you inside.

One thing that's sort of nice (in a backwards way) about having something on a late '90's Ford E-350 chassis is that it's not THAT much different from having one on a 2014 chassis (not including Transit vans here). I think I'd be annoyed buying a 2014 E-350 cutaway RV and basically getting a mid-90's van Well of course it's not that simple and there are advantages to newer, but anyway, you have a new-to-you '98. Probably came down the line not that long before mine.

I'm curious too about your leaks. There are a few "known" areas back there (lower fridge vent, "tire locker" edge seal), but there are a few other possibilities (ladder, running lights, etc.).

Coming from boating, most RV's seem a little cheesy to me. But I will say that Chinook did a pretty good job as compared to many others I've seen. The manual with all diagrams showing plumbing, electrical, etc. are very handy, and although there are a few things I'd change (MDF, I'm looking at YOU), most things are fairly well executed. And the fiberglass shell means that at least there aren't "structural" seams and joints to leak (but of course things in holes, such as vents etc. still can).

Anyway, welcome aboard -- I hope you'll feel like more than just popping in from time-to-time (but of course that's fine too).

You may find some things of interest in the Reference section. There is a 1998 manual in case you don't have your factory notebook, and there are also wall and ceiling structural drawings that (lucky for us) are from 1999.

BG

Regarding the leak.. It's kind of a long story but the Chinook was located in another state and I negotiated the deal over the phone. When I flew down to pick it up my flight was delayed by weather so by the time I arrived it was getting late and the guys at storage lot where it was parked were standing around waiting to close and go home. I didn't have the time I would have wanted to really look it over and so I took the guy at his word that it had never had any damage. Turns out he had backed the right rear corner into something and busted through the fiberglass at the ladder attachment points. I'm guessing here but he probably didn't repair it right away and rain got in a few times before he did.

Repair is an exaggeration. He slapped on some bondo and covered up the bottom of the damaged cabinets so I'm in the process of correcting that. I would like to replace all the MDF from the stove on back but from my initial efforts it looks like I would have to remove most of it in pieces (those guys LOVED staples). How hard is it to remove the refrigerator? I know it's too big to remove from the camper but if it's not too difficult I might still replace all the MDF in that corner.

Welcome Rick. Too bad about the damage. Hopefully you'll get it repaired and ready to enjoy quickly. Chinooks are well built but do have a few quirks. Lot's of good info here (well maybe not from me ). looking forward to your repairs. We like pictures!

Welcome. I think the refrigerator can be removed through the side door if you remove the passenger seat. I'm considering a complete interiors remodel which would include upfront a four foot split bench that turns into a bed, no dinette or lounge, giving me an extra two feet on both sides for the kitchen. I would remove the fridge and go with a 12 volt chest type, with part of the counter opening up for top access. The end result is more storage, more counter and better long term boondocking or full time.

rgmullins wrote:Regarding the leak.. It's kind of a long story but...Turns out he had backed the right rear corner into something and busted through the fiberglass at the ladder attachment points.

Well, we can't blame that one on Chinook. It's hard buying these, isn't it? If you proceed at your leisure, someone else snaps them up, but then rushing has its downsides as well. I kind of lucked out as I had been looking (and looking, and looking) and finally gave up and was looking at some different Class C's. I drove 1,000 miles or so to look at one of the other-brand ones (because isn't everything worth having at least that far away? ) and it was okay but not great. But I was getting so tired of the roller coaster or looking. In desperation I looked on Craigslist and somehow saw a Concourse that was just listed (and misspelled), and said I'd be there the next morning at 8 a.m. (even so by the time I got there they had a bunch of other calls). I didn't waste any time snapping it up (but it was nice that I was already there). Of course then I was over a thousand miles away and suddenly had a camper van AND a Chinook (and there was an ice storm). Fun times

rgmullins wrote:Repair is an exaggeration.

Tells the story in four words.

rgmullins wrote:I would like to replace all the MDF from the stove on back but from my initial efforts it looks like I would have to remove most of it in pieces (those guys LOVED staples). How hard is it to remove the refrigerator? I know it's too big to remove from the camper but if it's not too difficult I might still replace all the MDF in that corner.

Couple things:

1) If you look back at some previous threads that discuss re-modeling, I (and some others) have posted some good "guts" photos that might be helpful. I've removed most everything from mine at one time or another (no big repairs, it's just how I roll).

2) I did remove my refrigerator. I knew I'd be getting rid of it (wanted a DC compressor type, plus one that didn't turn the hallway into a "slither sideways" type of space), so I didn't try TOO hard to get it out any creative way, but I think you might possibly run into the Corian counter ell of the kitchen in pulling it out (that said, you can remove that entire Corian sink counter - it's supported by a wooden grid that comes out with it). I've heard of people removing the fridge through either the dining window or the passenger door. I sawed mine in half which made it easy to carry out through the rear door (never knew sawing a refrigerator in half would be so easy). That does make it hard to put back though

3) One thing to note is that both the wall between the sink and shower, and the one between the stove and refrigerator are essentially bulkheads, and as such are somewhat supportive. They are made of plywood not MDF. All the other panels are MDF and would be reasonably easy to copy in other wood. But yeah, staple city! That said, most of the staples can be left in (the throw away parts) as long as you are replacing panels.

4) If you for some reason end up deciding to patch the MDF, there are a couple of panels you might be able to use. One is the "back board" of the storage locker ahead of the spare tire (plus you gain a lot of space by removing it), and the other(s) are that the TV and VCR sit on riser boards made of matching MDF to the main panels. Not saying that you should want to retain MDF, but I could see making use of those panels in certain situations.

Welcome, Rick from Cinci!

I wanted to jump in and add to what Blue~Go touched on as it relates to MDF in the Chinook...
For my galley remodel, I also sawed my fridge in half for removal...easy peasy. Took all of about 10 minutes to cut and pull out. In addition to the remodel, I needed to repair water damage on the floor and some MDF panels. I located some MDF that is almost an identical match to the OEM "oak-look". It's "Country Oak" made by Dakota (the shelving manufacturer). It comes in several sizes of moldings, trims, shelving boards and even 2x4' "handy-panels". Unfortunately, the Country Oak is in the process of being discontinued. You'll find it at Menards. It looks like you have a couple of Menards stores in the Cinci area (Evendale and Loveland?).

Good luck and keep us posted!

Did you guys use marine grade plywood to replace those walls and floor sections? Can the wall by the stove and closet be yanked and replaced with new lumber or do they have to remain in place? The following is just a stupid idea in my head, what do you think? ...Sorry my art leaves alot to be desired.

dougm wrote:Did you guys use marine grade plywood to replace those walls and floor sections? Can the wall by the stove and closet be yanked and replaced with new lumber or do they have to remain in place?

I repaired sections of the floor with quality grade ply, like OEM.
Yes, the walls (stove and closet) can be replaced. They are screwed/stapled to wood "cleats" attached to the floor, ceiling and parts of the sidewall that have the ply substrate.