Stove Hood Vent...necessary?

[Blue~Go]

ePorter: What you show outlined in red is very similar to how I have the cutout in my bulkhead. I have kept the refrigerator in the original spot, but mine is only around 31" tall*, so even on top of the generator box I still have an open area there with a counter on top. That is my "getting ready to go out or coming in" set down space, plus my space for bathroom type stuff that doesn't fit in the bathroom. I also have narrow shelves at the back (~6" wide) that span the counter crosswise, then the upper cabinet (same basic dimensions as the rest of the "small" upper cabinets). For me, that type of space is just what I needed, so I kept the kitchen where it already was (except the fridge is under that counter in the old fridge space - just that there is a counter at about 45" tall, plus it doesn't stick out as far as the original fridge even down lower. I have the fridge space cantilevered slightly over the gen box, so there is a bit of a shoe nook down there.

For me the cutout in the bulkhead, the slightly less deep fridge, plus the open counter space above it (even tho it is 45" tall), gives a completely different/open feeling vs. the original. In fact I'm sprawled out on the couch now with my rig backed up to the beach which is just outside the back door. Nice open view.

Hoosier's way is good too - I'm not knocking it. I just wanted that "get ready to go out" space, plus sort of a bathroom-stuff-annex place. I'm always gathering up things to go out on a hike or whatever, and I like the counter space as a staging area.

I came down to two choices for how to set up the forward edge of that counter (the edge between the fridge and stove area). One was to run the bulkhead up a few inches further and then have it be like a little fiddle for that fridge counter. The other was to let that counter run forward over the top of the bulkhead cutout. Since I couldn't see leaving anything on that counter when underway anyway (even with a fiddle), I decided for the more open, "waterfall" look with the counter on top of the cutout.

Let me find a link to the Dometic hood I'm eyeing up. They had two with the same style ventilator (essentially a low round cap that sits on the roof and houses the fan, which pulls upward through a hose). One went completely flush with the upper cabinet (super sleek but maybe not quite as good if you are deep frying turkeys), and one with a rounded/sleek/attractive hood that is obviously nothing like the typical ones we have

BTW, I don't see anything too wrong with having the fridge chimney do double duty for a compressor fridge and and exhaust fan. The fridge has no flame or combustion, there are no tubes, and heat from the compressor is minor compared to the "flame" and etc. of the absorption fridge. It's just warm air. They call for 25 square inches of ventilation space. Both things want to pull/push air out the top so no conflict there. The only possible thing is if you cook a lot of greasy stuff, maybe have the front of the chimney "slot" removable for cleaning? (I don't tend to cook greasy stuff, so maybe that's not actually necessary anyway.) I would feel differently about sharing the chimney with an absorption fridge - that's supposed to be completely sealed off from the interior.

BG

* It's a 4.7 cubic foot refrigerator freezer with an external compressor (you get a little more fridge space that way).

[Blue~Go]

The hood I was referring to is the Dometic CK-150. Looks like so:



They also make one with a bit more of a "hood" on the interior. Nice rounded sleek stainless. I could see cases where a hood would be good to have (vs. the sleeker flush grille this one has).

[chin_k]

Blue, you are correct about a compressor fridge and share the space there with the ventilation, but most of us still have the old absorption one that burn propane. I completely forget that your setup is different. Sorry.

[HoosierB]

I'm currently placing bulkheads in my rig, and trying to figure out ideal sizing/depths. I don't see any dims on your drawing, but it looks like you have the cabinet/counters in-line with the back door, so ~20" deep at the base? I'm thinking of adding a "notch" into my bulkhead to let a counter span the area, definitely looks like a better setup than another vertical wall.

eporter... your diagram is exactly what I ended up doing to retain the integrity of that "septum" wall. I even reenforced the cutout on the air shaft side with a vertical strip of 1x3 (floor to ceiling) for extra rigidity. Adding the new wall behind the dinette seat back adds a ton more support for the microwave without sacrificing visual openess. Tying it into the closet door wall with a cross member and added support of the septum wall, makes everything pretty stout. Yep...countertop about 20" or less deep. Like Blue, my "getting ready to go" stuff can be placed on the lid of the recessed burner.
Using a remote compressor fridge, so no worries about "flame".

Another idea: use the cooking sheet concept for under cabinet hood and a 4 inch 12v in-line marine bilge air blower directly vented to the old fridge roof vent. All in for about 30 bucks.

[Blue~Go]

There is also another "light duty" option that might work for some. The "Oceanair vent extractor fan and light" is a marine fan that is meant for exhausting shower or sort-of galley (although I don't think they really intend it for heavy grease but more for steam). It's a very quiet roof fan that draws basically nothing. Sort of like the Nicro solar vents but without the ongoing dying of the batteries and etc. (because this one hooks into your 12-volt system). It only draws 2.8 watts (1/4 amp at 12 volts DC), but I'm sure this is only for the fan as they show the light as halogen (wonder if it is LED by now?).

I was thinking it had to go right at the roof level, but reading the .pdf I see it says it's compatible with hose and duct fittings. Hmmm.



https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?id=1815765

Oceanair vent light fan.pdf

(413.05 KiB) Downloaded 359 times

[HoosierB]

There is also another "light duty" option that might work for some. The "Oceanair vent extractor fan and light" is a marine fan that is meant for exhausting shower or sort-of galley (although I don't think they really intend it for heavy grease but more for steam). It's a very quiet roof fan that draws basically nothing. Sort of like the Nicro solar vents but without the ongoing dying of the batteries and etc. (because this one hooks into your 12-volt system). It only draws 2.8 watts (1/4 amp at 12 volts DC), but I'm sure this is only for the fan as they show the light as halogen (wonder if it is LED by now?).

Blue, this could be a pretty clean an easy set up. And it appears to take a G4 size halogen bulb. Philips makes a compatible warm white LED G4. The unit is already wired to do light and fan separately if you choose. Not bad, except the $100 price......

I wonder if it could withstand the "heat" of being over burners?

[Blue~Go]

Actually only $88 right now at Defender (you have to put things in the cart to see because otherwise they have to show MAP pricing). Good sleuthing on the bulb!

The Dometic one is nice, but this one might work fine for my uses. Not sure how much "pull" this one has once you duct it, but then you're not trying to shift caramel. Always nice to have options.

Between this and ePorter's bulkhead thread, it's fun to re-kindle our/everyone's remodeling chats

[eporter123]

Not sure that my remodeling pace is exactly smoking... more of a slooooowly glowing ember!

[HoosierB]

Between this and ePorter's bulkhead thread, it's fun to re-kindle our/everyone's remodeling chats

I agree. My rig projects needed to be on hold for sometime, but I'm now back into it. (YAY!)

[Blue~Go]

My rig projects needed to be on hold for sometime, but I'm now back into it. (YAY!)

Absolutely yay! I won't be back to my supplies until after Thanksgiving, but one can always plan