Anyone good with power steps? HELP!

[Dano]

Yeah, hard to believe there hasn’t been something obvious to this point. I can’t say I’ve had this deep a problem ever before. I will be awful angry if it’s something simple I just overlooked! Both fuses tested good. I even removed 21 and re-seated it just to be sure...still good. I think the modified connector is like the fuse block below, it is after whatever is blown and similarly, not getting power. It’s like the power line is: Power source to ignition, ignition to blown fuse, blown fuse to modified connector, modified connector to the Ford/Chinook connector and then down to the fuse block. There just seems like there is something after the ignition but before the modified connector if that make sense. I’ll take photos of the fuse block if that will help you. I’ve already noticed patched in wires down there with electrical tape which isn’t a good sign... At this point, I got the steps to work, just the ignition over ride function doesn't work which is the yellow line that attaches to the right fuse block so it's not getting power. Hopefully once this fuse block is restored to power, everything should work.

[Dano]

What an unbelievable journey...Previous to all of this garbage, I had to have a daytime running light module installed as per Canadian standards. I decided to take it off or at least temporarily disconnect it in order to take it out of the equation. So, I find the module and start removing wires. The ground is attached to the black battery terminal so I go to remove it and pull the battery cable off with my hand! He put his connector in between the terminal connector and the thickness of the connector prevented the battery terminal from being tightened properly! THEN, I look down at the positive connector and there is an exterior fuse connector with no fuse in it. I look to see where it goes and it is connected to an ORIGINAL daytime running light module! THEY PUT A SECOND UNIT IN when there was one there all along. Take out the entire new DRL module, add a fuse in to the old one and it works. I call the garage and tell them I want my money back and told them their mechanic did a pretty poor job. The good news, full credit back on the module and labour and I am back using factory installed, original electrical parts with all lights working, battery terminal back to normal and tight. Follow me so far?

Still doesn’t solve my lack of power issue Blue!! I told him about it and he is putting his best man on it Monday morning and all he does is electrical. In the meantime, I have removed the entire steel panel behind the dash cover at your knees below the steering wheel and can see all of the wiring relatively easy and so will the electrical guy. I am now going to re-check all the fuses under the dash again to see if I have missed anything....

[chin_k]

For a second, I thought the steps will be working after you put the fuse in the old holder, but I guess the odyssey will continue.

[Dano]

I would pay a great deal of money Chin for that to be true....I'LL FIND IT!!

[Blue~Go]

I can tell you aren't going to be giving up.

On that DRL install - geez, don't you just hate it when you willingly pay for good work and someone is just lazy? Grrr. Too bad the steps didn't just magically work after that.

I'm going to take a look at that giant paper I have. I think I remember actually seeing some schematics along with the "illustrations" but I'm not sure. Will post back.

(Or is the shop fixing it now?)

[Dano]

Pretty bad install but I had no choice but I could have done better in my opinion. We might swap the cost of the DRL install for labor towards the electrical issue. I'd gladly swap it at this point even thought the module and labor was $200. If I get lucky and he finds it quickly, I'll pressure them for a few extra items since that's fair. I spent another hour checking all the fuses again in the left foot area, still no luck. There were missing fuses in some locations so I tried new ones, no luck. I think I am nearing the end of what I think I can do and might need to hand the ball off but will keep thinking and trying

Blue, I'll take any lead you can throw my way, many thanks for your continued support. Dinner is on me when we finally meet

[Scott]

I don't have a power step, and sorry for chiming in without reading the full thread, but have you activated the step directly with an external power source like a jump pack? I think you've determined that you're not getting 12VDC at the step leads, but if it's easy enough, it would be "nice" just make sure the thing works. In troubleshooting, I always do the easiest thing first. Plus, if it IS a blown fuse, that suggests something was amiss anyway, so maybe it was disabled or disconnected rather than repaired. Historically, so many of my vehicular electrical problems/gremlins have been due to corroded grounds or contacts, and the step is outside after all. Good luck and congrats on your determination. (If any of this was already covered, please ignore my laziness )

[Dano]

Thanks Scott, appreciate you chiming in!

To update the whole situation...The steps were intermittent to unusable. Through a variety of tests, etc., I have replaced the motor, door switch and the control module. I have power at the steps and they go in and out no problem and work really well. The step switch that holds it out, actually holds it out. I have tested the 4 way connector and everything but the yellow line has power to it. Now, admittedly, the stairs at the moment are running BACKWARDS. They open when the door is closed and close when the door is open. The new controller uses a “normally open” switch where the old controller used a “normally closed” if I am not mistaken. I have tried two “normally open” switches and they both work backwards. Before going to a “normally closed switch, I figured I would get the yellow line fixed to rule out if it has anything to do with it running backwards. THAT’S when the fun started and all this other crap blossomed out of nowhere! So, in summary, I have lost power outside mirrors, the digital readout on the mirror doesn’t work, my stairs run backwards and I have just about had it. The good news is that ALL of these items run off the switched 12V fuse block under the dash so are all connected. Fix that and I should hopefully be back in the game. Hah!

[chin_k]

I am surprised that the controller switched the relay from NO to a NC one without a good reason and a matching update on the actuator/sensor on the step to work with the change. I was about to suggest reversed polarity in the electrical, but realized that it can't be since you already testing the power and ground like it is normal.

[Blue~Go]

Just "unfurled' the "Sketch Kit - Camper Wiring" Ford document (seriously, it's like 24" x 36") and I see there is a "Modified Vehicle Schematic." Hmmmm..... Before I even study it, I'm going to upload a photo of it.

Now, where they say things like "F4UB-14A411A" they are referring to various pigtails from the kit. They are not all the "modified vehicle" power plug we are discussing. Some have to do with other things I think (Auxilliary AC, etc.)

The trailer wiring ones seem really easy to understand because I have seen and worked with them. Some of the other stuff is a bit confusing on first glance.

But let me get some photos up here and we can all look.

Here is an overview of the whole huge thing. Sharpie for scale. This is from 1997, but having worked on my 1997 van, 1999 Chinook, and buddy's 2003 E-450 I'd say more is the same than different over the years. Click to enlarge as usual.

Argh I see the first one is blurry. Will shoot another and come back and fix. Edit: Well I'm in the Chinook and I guess I can't get far away enough to get the whole thing in focus. This one is a bit better. Anyway, following posts show the areas of interest - I just thought I'd show how huge the thing is. Old Skool like a huge paper map

And an overview of all the various Ford pigtail part numbers with other info.

Next post for the more interesting one...