Rear Awning, anyone done it?

[Blue~Go]

Just noticed something else while perusing the Beckson Stow Aways. They have a few "Twist out" models. I didn't know what that was (the usuals are pry or screw). I see they are sleek like the TH Sure Seal (but Beckson is more of a hatch maker so I'd tend to prefer them) and you can also have them in Stow Away. Says it is a bayonet type closure underneath - not sure if that takes any more depth but probably shows it on the site. Here is the page with the table. Oh, looks like it is only in 5" though.

https://www.beckson.com/twistdp.html

And for their deck plates in general:

https://www.beckson.com/dckplt.html

Stow aways (not sure how much room you'll have between the walls but they did fit the entire outside shower assembly in - of course it probably varies at different heights).

https://www.beckson.com/stowdp.html

I'm not a fan of the pry ones, but then you aren't going to be removing it a bunch.

I mentioned this before, but if you do your initial work after you make the hole but before you install the plate frame, you have a bit more room.

[chin_k]

Those marine products can become quite pricey!

Well, people with boat and RV are loaded with cash, you know

[HoosierB]

So are those middle arms in compression? I'm trying to visualize the geometry/forces. On a boat with a bobstay, that middle beam would be in compression, and I think that would be the case here, but I could be wrong. If so, and if access is difficult, I would consider VHB with a large base plate (of course I'd have to get hands on the awning to be sure - maybe there are forces I'm not visualizing.

None of the arms are under compression. Simple slide with button locks. The awning roll has a spring tension bar.

What size metal backing plate would be needed to spread the load? ... 4"x4", 6"x6", steel or aluminum???
I'm thinking of attaching to the interior raw fiberglass shell using a high strength auto body bond adhesive. Each plate would be pre-drilled for bolts/nuts and fender washers.

[Blue~Go]

None of the arms are under compression. Simple slide with button locks. The awning roll has a spring tension bar.

Well huh. I wonder why they even have those middle arms then if they aren't taking a compression force against the body.

I guess if there is no force on them then you probably wouldn't even need backing plates. You could just use fender washers.

If you do use backing plates then it's good to round the corners a little. That keeps you from accidentally making some sort of point load. Then when you bed them you will want to make sure they end up perpendicular to the fasteners (I sometimes use them for this reason - if not a very flat surface and fender washers are used they sometimes end up like pringles which kind of defeats the purpose somewhat).

It's hard to say exactly what size not knowing for sure the force type/direction. But I don't know, maybe 3-4" x 4" or so? If you have room for that. 1/8" to 1/4" thick? I would use something like 3/16" or 1/4" fiberglass board plus the thickened epoxy that would back it and fair the surface.

For the top (which is surely under some load), what is the shape of the mounting brackets going to be? How many mounting positions are there on the top rail? Is it a rail or individual spots?

I know this sounds vague, but it's hard for me to "figure" out the forces on this one. You'd likely be fine with fender washers on all of them, but I do like backing plates (and especially the flat surface they give for washers and nuts).

[HoosierB]

Well huh. I wonder why they even have those middle arms then if they aren't taking a compression force against the body.
For the top (which is surely under some load), what is the shape of the mounting brackets going to be? How many mounting positions are there on the top rail? Is it a rail or individual spots?

My guess is stability for the additional 12" extension (48" over 36"). 4-point attachment vs. 2 would lessen vertical/lateral sway. Same principal with pontoon boat bimini tops.
It's a continuous awning rail, and is intended to be mounted flat against the rig's vertical side 3" above the top of the door (as shown in the past post pics).
With the Chinook however, to avoid covering the clearance lights, equally spaced "angle" brackets across the roof top would need to be mounted for attaching the awning rail. The same as the bag awning makers offering "universal fit" angle brackets for roof racks. That's when "caconcourse" offered up the idea of using VHB tape and screws for mounting such brackets to the gelcoat roof top.

So you would recommend fiberglass board for backing material? I was thinking like a 4"x4" size, too.

(Edit added): I've had pretty good results with West Systems Six10 thickened epoxy adhesive. Any others you would recommend?

[Blue~Go]

I think WEST 610 and fiberglass board backing would be swell (I'd probably add fender washers to the party too). But other choices would work. It's not a super difficult situation like a metal boat in salt water or etc. I like how you get the flat surface and the thickened epoxy (of which 610 is one kind) takes up the gap and is strong. But even plywood would work and would likely be a heck of a lot more than some stock installs (let's face it, RV installs are not always, shall we say, "robust").

I often use the basic dark green FRP board from Mcmaster Carr. Cuts easily with a saw or router (obviously wear protective gear so you aren't getting dust on your skin or breathing it).

So supposedly continuous rail but you are going to, say, use three brackets. Yeah, I'd feel good with backing blocks and machine screws (although likely VHB or other things would work too). I just think with only VHB I'd be thinking about it every time the wind blew that big "sail" or I went over a big bump, or someone yanked on it. That said, I'll be using VHB to mount my solar panels and won't worry at all. But there is little "leverage" on those (and I'm using a foot area that is like three times what the typical brackets are, because the minimal foot area on those for the VHB makes me nervous).

So I guess it boils down to, for me -- in situations like this where no-one knows for sure exactly what is enough -- it's partly what seems "good" and partly what will NOT make me specifically lie awake thinking about it at night, if that makes sense. You probably have a sense of where that is for you. Another way I think about it is, which installation would make me feel best if I could snap my fingers and it would be done (that cuts any laziness or rush on my part out of the picture, which can be a factor otherwise ).

BG
PS: Although if you are still not SURE it would work out, you could try it with VHB and then if there was some hidden gotcha that made the whole thing just not work out you could remove it (alcohol and a string or scraper) and be none the "holier" for it. Or if it worked a treat and you knew you would feel better with a more substantial install you could THEN do the holes and backing blocks. Kind of a hedge until you are sure (and maybe you would decide the VHB was fine).

[HoosierB]

Thanks for the reply BG.
I was thinking 1/4" structural FRP boards from McMaster. Not that expensive. And using machine screws with fender washers. I would use maybe four evenly spaced el brackets across the roof to attach the continuous awning rail. The roof has a slight curved peak that would prevent using one long piece. McMaster has structural FRP el channel as well (or maybe use aluminum). Still need exact final measurements. It's been so dang cold here, my pole building is like an icebox. Hard to make the effort let alone concentrate once out there.
So, I'm at a point where this is the best my thinking takes me for now. And to commit to "drilling holess" would be a huge deal indeed.
For me, the added benefits of a rear entry awning are worth the time/effort to do it right (if at all doable). Same approach I've taken for my galley remodel.
To VHB or to drill????.... Time to let it all simmer for a spell.

[Blue~Go]

I hear you on the "percolating." Given the marooned-on-the-couch period I've been doing the same on various projects. It's useful! It's probably only half the time that I come back to the original version of the plan anyway

Just so you know, the fiberglass angle isn't quite as rigid as you'd think (or as I'd think anyway), size-for-size. It's useful for sure though (and comes in many sizes of course). They do also make Garolite G10 which similar to the plain green FRP (made with polyester resin) but is made with epoxy resin and is potentially stronger in some ways (I was thinking of the angle although not sure how you are going to use it).

[Gary Roe]

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[Gary Roe]

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