waste tank heater

[chin_k]

I can't find info on it on my manual, so I actually took out the heater coil switch under the countertop and use continuity meter to find out which breaker is responsible for it. It is the 12V furnace one, but mine is a 2000 Concourse, so maybe in later year they changed it. I don't think it is 110V AC, but it is possible there is a 12V DC solenoid that turns on a 110V AC for the heating coil. I don't think they want to design it that way. I would say let's wait and see what original poster come back with, before we get too creative with the solution.

[Blue~Go]

Well I thought someone upthread said their tank heaters were 110. And a "heat" breaker in the 110 box on later models made me wonder. Might be for floor heat though. That's probably quite likely to be 110.

But sure, let's hear more from the OP. Good idea.

[joanbmorgan]

Wow! It's so great to get some good advice on issue. BUT, its way beyond my ability. I'm going to give all these good suggestions to my brother-in-law the next time I see him and hopefully he can go thru the suggestions. Other than this issue my 2003 Concourse has been working like a charm. Again, THANKS!

[Astrodokk]

I'm having an issue with my furnace. I read in this thread a suggestion to check the furnace fuse. Where exactly is that fuse? I have tank heaters too, and the light doesn't light up either.

[SMan]

Are your tank heaters aftermarket?

[Astrodokk]

I don’t think so.

[Blue~Go]

The furnace fuse is in the "brown box" that is by the floor on the end of the sink "ell." The top half of the door flips down.

The DC fuses are on the right side. The furnace fuse is the sixth one from the left, should be 20 amps. The wire coming out the bottom of that fuse position should be 12 gauge red (for a double check).

Here is the diagram from the 2000 manual:

There is one diagram for with "Nu heat" and one without. I'm showing the one with. The only difference is on the AC side (left side) where you see the two breakers next to each other labeled "Main" and "Nu-heat." In the non-nu-heat model there is just the one Main breaker in that same area. No difference on the DC side, which is where you are going to find the furnace breaker.

Click to enlarge:

[joanbmorgan]

I'm electrically challenged BUT, my furnace stopped working a while ago and it ended up the fuse had been put in somewhat crooked (very technical term). By pulling it out and then back in perfectly straight, I've had no trouble since. BUT my waste tank heaters still don't work. I've given up till I find someone that can check out all of the good suggestions that I've received. Good Luck.

[Astrodokk]

I just got home from a dinner meeting and read these posts. It's dark and cold outside but I just had to go out and look at the fuse box.
Lo and behold! NO FUSE in the #6 spot!
I was going to take the rig in tomorrow for diagnostics, but now I'll be buying a fuse instead. Hope it works!
I also called a mobile RV guy, who's minimum is $260...110 an hour and the rest for the trip. No thanks.
Now I wonder why they left it out? Must have been when they replaced the roof AC and forgot. Shoddy work if you ask me. A good place would have made sure the furnace worked too, not just the AC. I'm bummed they replaced with the Air V Carrier manual model. No heat strip and can't use the 4 button control, which I liked the look of. Can't it be used just for the furnace? I can find one on Ebay.
Anyway, thanks everyone. I feel relieved.

[Astrodokk]

Sorry for hijacking this thread...