Which amp Pro Dynamic do I need??

[caconcourse]

All this a long way of asking the question of whether you all think our usage pattern still makes it worth installing the PD4645? If it runs down the batteries more quickly due to the LED indicator lights and wizard, I'm wondering if its worth it or not. Any and all advice welcome!
David

I can't imagine any way the PD4645 is going to be less efficient than that crappy old Magnatek converter. A blinking LED is not going to affect your consumption in any meaningful way, and the unit runs cooler, probably saving more energy than wasted.

If anyone still has the original solar controller, they should get that replaced with a 3-stage controller as well. The original solar controller has all the same disadvantages of the Magnatek unit: inefficient (slow charging) and can overcharge batteries). I recommend this Coleman/Sunforce unit because it fits in the same opening. I put mine in five years ago, and I use the solar for my battery tender in the driveway. I don't leave my unit plugged in continuously because the solar keeps the batteries charged. I plug in a day or so before a trip to get the refrigerator cold. I leave the 12V system enabled all the time, so I always have lights and accessories available. I did add a second and third 50W solar panel, so there is enough to keep the system charged in cloudy weather. Plus in sunny Southern California, it only rains a cumulative two or three weeks in a year.

Link to solar controller on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004R ... UTF8&psc=1

[Flame]

Well dang,,,If the solar charger I have will overcharge my batteries I just waisted a lot of time and money on the 4645!! I know nothing about solar. Where is this unit I need to replace located? Also another silly question...my chinook stays parked under a metal carport I special built for it. It has no walls or doors. Just a metal awning. Will the solar panels still work parked under the carport or does it need to be out in direct sunlight?

[caconcourse]

Well dang,,,If the solar charger I have will overcharge my batteries I just waisted a lot of time and money on the 4645!! I know nothing about solar. Where is this unit I need to replace located? Also another silly question...my chinook stays parked under a metal carport I special built for it. It has no walls or doors. Just a metal awning. Will the solar panels still work parked under the carport or does it need to be out in direct sunlight?

Although the controller doesn't prevent overcharging, with only one 50W panel and parking under a roof, it is very unlikely to happen. If/when you upgrade your solar panel(s), it could be a problem. But, assuming you have a solar panel, the old controller is so inefficient, the panel is barely useful. The controller is on the front wall of the cabin, to the right of the stereo. Here is a picture of the old one, and a picture of the new one, and one of my three-panel setup:

[chin_k]

Flame, you can see if the solar is doing anything by looking at the voltage on the solar controller right now. I don't think it is doing much if your carport is doing its job. You either get solar power, or weathered paint.

It is not a waste of money with the PD4645 since you can't relies on the solar all the time. The 50W panels are not expected to let you top off your battery consistently. Clay have 3X the power than your setup. It does not need direct sunlight, but it need to be out in the open, out of the shadow. It does work in overcast and cloudy days.

[deppstein]

Thanks Clay for confirmation of improved efficiency of the PD4645 over stock...sounds like even in my limited use scenario it is worth the install...will proceed accordingly.
David

[Flame]

Darn, I wrote a lengthy post and guess I did not hit SUBMIT!! Oh well,I found the solar control panel by the stereo, I also found the book in my chinook packet that says Siemens brand but the panel itself says Solar Electric Specialties Company SES/10. So maybe mine has been replaced before? Only had 30K miles when we bought it so I wouldn't think so. my panel is very simple there is a low battery red light, a battery charged green light, and a solar charging amber light. The amber light is what is on now. Also there is a fuse holder in the panel. Do I really need solar charging? I could just pull that fuse out and not have to worry about any of it ,right? My new 4645 green light is only flashing every 8 seconds now so everything should be charged!

[caconcourse]

Darn, I wrote a lengthy post and guess I did not hit SUBMIT!! Oh well,I found the solar control panel by the stereo, I also found the book in my chinook packet that says Siemens brand but the panel itself says Solar Electric Specialties Company SES/10. So maybe mine has been replaced before? Only had 30K miles when we bought it so I wouldn't think so. my panel is very simple there is a low battery red light, a battery charged green light, and a solar charging amber light. The amber light is what is on now. Also there is a fuse holder in the panel. Do I really need solar charging? I could just pull that fuse out and not have to worry about any of it ,right? My new 4645 green light is only flashing every 8 seconds now so everything should be charged!

The SES/10 is the factory solar controller (10Amp) for your year. I think my 2000 had the Model 15, but both are poor controllers by today's standards. You can remove the fuse to disable the solar charger. The biggest benefit from solar comes when you are boondocking (or just camping without shore power), as the solar panels can charge your batteries during the day without driving or running your generator or being plugged in.

Even the single 50 Watt panel can keep your batteries topped off when the Chinook is parked in the sun (and with the more efficient controller). As I recall, the single panel did not keep up for me with the old controller, but did with the new one. The "topping off" environment for me is just leaving the 12V system turned on, supporting the background power consumption, like the propane leak detector, TV sleep mode, occasional lighting, etc. With the additional panels, I can run the fans, use lights etc., and still have the batteries stay charged.

Siemens is the brand of the 50 Watt solar panel on the roof. SES made the controllers, but I don't think they are still in that business. They were high end in their day, like most of the Chinook equipment, but the solar technology is much better and cheaper today. The Siemens panels are rock solid, however, even though they are old and less powerful for their size than today's. I got a second Siemens panel from a fellow Chinooker, and the third from Amazon, together which provide enough power for the way we use the Chinook.

[Flame]

Thank you Clay! You have explained it VERY well to me. I may still go ahead then and order a upgraded control but still just use the original panel. I like being able to "top " the batteries off without overcharging! What's another $100 in the big scheme of things ! Right?

[deppstein]

Well, I finally got around to installing the new PD4645 charger/converter yesterday in Turtle (2004 Premier). It took me about 5 hours...but only because I am electrically challenged and wanted to make sure I followed everyone's advice exactly. Clay's tips were invaluable--especially the two pointers about loosening the wire stop in the cabinet area behind where the electronics are to be able to pull enough positive and negative battery wire to attach easily to the new DC distribution board. That was the hardest part...not loosening the stop from the unit, that was easy, but maneuvering a screw driver in that cabinet space to loosen the wire stop itself was a pain in the ass. And the positive and negative battery wires were also taped together so I had to get that off without damaging the insulation. Anyway, got it done, and as you can see from the pic, had plenty of wire to attache to new board.
Getting the DC wires into the new distribution board was not too bad...again thanks to Clay's advice on splitting the large Frig wire into a V to fit the contact post.
The only other issues I ran into worth mentioning are that I had to loosen the entire cabinet housing (four wood screws) in order to raise the housing a bit so get the old charger/converter unit up and over the layer of tight weave carpet we have laid. And the second was that the flanges on either side of the new unit did not align exactly with the original unit's holes...I managed to get three of the four screws back in, but will have to drill new pilot hole for the 4th self-tapping sheet metal screw (see pic). The unit is VERY secure with just the three screws, so I may just leave it as is...we'll see.
Finally, I would remind anyone else doing this upgrade to look carefully in the box for the four screws that are in a little plastic pouch...these are the one's that are used to reattach the brown cover when all done. The original screws you took out when removing the brown cover DO NOT fit the new unit's holes.
Turtle is on shore power as we speak, and all systems are GO!
So, thanks again to all who contributed their knowledge and expertise to this project. Could not have done it without you.
David

[SMan]

I'd like to get the nerve to make this change as well. I am still a bit wary of the electrical stuff.

Good job David!