I just had a chat with kyidletime, and we talked over some of his near-future goals for using the Chinook. I don't think he'll mind if I share those, and then I'm going to add some links to things we talked about - perhaps others might like to see them too.
So, the near-future plans for the rig are to have the basics all functioning, to camp most of the time at campgrounds (plugged in), with the occasional night or two boondocking (Wal-Mart or elsewhere), preferring not to have to use the generator for the basic DC loads (obviously microwave, Air-con, etc. do require that if not plugged in). Since the '95 has just a single house battery under the hood, any plans to make the rig more of a "boondocking machine" would likely involve moving the house bank, perhaps going to AGM, etc. But for now that's not on the table, and so things will be set up with a flooded-cell, single house battery under the hood. This means it will be relatively economical to replace if needed. Thus the plan is to shoot for something like a 70% discharge "allowed" in the scheme. This reduces the overall longevity of the battery somewhat, but gives more usable amp hours in the meantime. And after all, replacing the battery once is no more money than buying two in the first place (which would be the case for a longer-lived pair that one would try to keep up to 50% or higher remaining charge).
Of the three functions that were accomplished with the previous (but now non-functioning) systems, two will be handled by a Blue Sea 7622 (jump start and auto combine/dis-combine), and one will likely be handled by a Blue Sea 6005 or 6006 switch (connect or disconnect house loads from house battery) (6005/6006 are the same switch, just one has a knob and one has a removable "key").
At the same time as installing these items, attention will be paid to OCP (fuses/breakers), and wire size/voltage drop. Although there is no plan to install a battery monitor at present, attention will be paid to figuring out the amp-hour consumption plus typical time used of the common items. This, combined with checking the voltage after batteries have been at rest will suffice for now.
Another item under consideration is a new charger. Either something like the Progressive Dynamics 9200 series, or perhaps a separate "marine style" charger. The advantage of the latter is that the charge settings can be set for the specific voltages for AGM's, etc. (future consideration). From what I can see, the PD simply has a single, pre-ordained setting for each stage of charging, and, for example, the float charge voltage is too high for AGM's. It also doesn't look like it is temperature compensated. No big deal for a single, relatively cheap flooded cell battery, but important for AGM (or lithium). Actually, it think some flooded cell batteries also call for different voltages.
Size of charger (i.e. amp rating) will depend on what size and length of wire currently runs between house battery and charger. If it's anything like what was in my rig, it may not be sized to handle much over 45 amps. Also, if there is a lot of voltage drop (mine had this), then the "smart" charging voltages are somewhat negated (because, say 14.3 amps and 15% voltage drop now equals 12.1...... what's the point of having the correct voltage coming out of the charger if it never reaches the battery).
Here are some links to some products and resources we discussed. We may have another phone call once we have some more specs, but we'll continue to post back here to keep the thread useful.
1) Blue Sea 7622
Installation instructions and sample wiring diagram
https://www.bluesea.com/products/7622/M ... 2V_DC_500A
http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resourc ... 180180.pdf
http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resourc ... L-ACRs.jpg
2) Blue sea switches, 6005/6006
https://www.bluesea.com/products/6005/m ... _Key_-_Red
https://www.bluesea.com/products/6006/m ... Knob_-_Red
http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resourc ... ersion.pdf
3) Progressive Dynamics PD9245
http://www.progressivedyn.com/rv_conver ... 45c_2.html
http://www.progressivedyn.com/charge_wizard.html
4) ProMariner ProNautic/Sterling ProCharge Ultra (same charger, different names) 40 amp marine charger. I have this brand charger in my rig (60 amp, but I upgraded wiring to handle it and eliminate voltage drop).
http://promariner.com/products/dry-moun ... cp-series/
http://www.sterling-power-usa.com/sterl ... arger.aspx
http://www.amazon.com/ProMariner-63140- ... 2470955011
4.5) Article on installing charger (it's detailed but has a lot of good information in it and a Promariner/Sterling is used in the photos and text)
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/inst ... ry_charger
5) ABYC ampacity tables for single wires (i.e. non-bundled), and for bundled up to 3 conductors (there are tables for even larger bundles - ratings go down accordingly).
assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/reference/21731.pdf
6) A good voltage drop calculator
http://nooutage.com/vdrop.htm
In general, parameters would include the following:
Select Voltage = 12 volts (for basic DC in Chinook - not for solar panels in series, etc.)
Select System Type = DC
Select Cable Size = variable
Select Conductor Type = copper
Select Conductor Temperature = I use 75ºC as a general default
Select Conduit Type = no conduit (I don't count loom as conduit)
Select Parallel Runs = single set of conductors
Length of Cable in Feet (one-way distance) = variable (both ways count in DC, but the calculator takes that into account with just one-way input)
Load Current in Amperes = variable
BG
