110 Volt Fridge

[Scott]

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[Scott]

Blank-off for the lower intake. Just a slab of 1/4" PVC. I left the upper fridge vent for all-weather passive ventilation, which is sometimes nice, sometimes not. I like fresh air, so it's usually a plus. I might block it off and devise something that will allow more control.

[Blue~Go]

Hi Paul,

If you are interested, there are DC refrigerators that would be just as large as the original, or much larger. There are even a few that have two compressors: One for the fridge and one for the freezer. I like the Danfoss (now also called Secop) compressors so I go for units that use those. As far as I know that's all of the ones by Vitrifrigo, Isotherm, and perhaps Nova Kool.

Sure Marine in Seattle sells all of these brands (plus a couple of others) and has an excellent size comparison tool on their website. You can sort and re-sort by brand, height, width, depth, etc.

Last I checked, the Norcolds don't use the Danfoss compressor, so I didn't include those in my shopping. But it's something one can always find out.

My friend's recent purchase is the Vitrifrigo DP150, which is 5.3 cubic feet and has a separate freezer door. That uses the Danfoss BD35 compressor and I think might be the biggest one that uses that size. It fit into the original recess for the same size reefer that we originally had (I think that's around 6.3 cu. ft if memory serves) with quite a bit of room to spare. That gave us over 5" of insulation (extruded polystyrene) outboard, around 4" on top, and 1.5" on each side, plus he gained a large pots and pans compartment below it. The original hole was about the same size as ours in the Chinook with the larger refrigerator option. He purposely downsized as he travels solo and wanted to easily be able to keep the fridge powered through clouds and rain without generator.

The next size Vitrifrigo that would easily fit in the hole was a DP2600. That's actually larger than our stock one in capacity (8.1 cu. feet!) and yet still would have left room for additional insulation. That uses the next size up BD 50 compressor. The reason it can be larger inside but smaller outside is that it doesn't have to support a full set of tubes, a chimney, a burner, etc. Just a relatively small (physically) compressor.

There was an even larger Isotherm brand that would have fit, that had two BD 35 compressors (one fridge, one freezer) but that's getting crazy deluxe There are also models that have drawers for both compartments, a door refrigerator and a drawer freezer, and other variations. Also stainless, black, or other finishes.

You can see the amp draw of the compressors (around 3.5 amps DC for the BD 35, and IIRC around 5 amps DC for the BD 50). But the other variable is duty cycle. Obviously the more insulation you can place around the fridge the lower the duty cycle.

The BD 35 in my small cooler shaped refrigerator averages around 25-30 amp hours per day. My "real" refrigerator has the same compressor but is much larger. However I don't expect the power use to go up much because I'll have lots of insulation around it, whereas the cooler type has very little. But I budgeted for 50 amp hours per day just in case. In actuality that will probably cover me for all my power use, not just the fridge.

Here is a link to Sure Marine's sizing tool. I can vouch for their customer service and they make it easy to have one shipped. Just in case you want to consider other options. Not that you shouldn't do an AC residential and inverter if that's what you'd prefer.

http://www.suremarineservice.com/Refrig ... rison.aspx

Just as a note, some of Vitrifrigo's units have an external compressor. This is the style of the one I went with. I wanted that so that I could just insulate the heck out of the "box" without worrying about ventilation, then handle the ventilation separately. Also this allowed me to have a smaller unit with a relatively large freezer.

I haven't decided which way to go on venting yet. If I go internal venting, I'll likely put the compressor in that little "fairly unusable" area beneath the stove that is between the wheelwell and the generator box. If external, I'll likely put it in a cabinet right under the existing roof vent. Although it might not be any problem, I'm not sure I want internal intake and external exhaust, so ruled that out.

Like Scott, I've made a plate to close off the external side vent (notorious for leakage problems, and not just due to poor bedding). My plate is about the same size and shape, only difference being that I made mine of fiberglass board and have an internal fastening system.

I may use the former roof vent as an area to exhaust stove heat/moisture, but not sure I really need that. We'll see. Or, somewhat like Scott did, use it as a ventilator. (If so I'd likely blank it off with a fiberglass plate and use a Vetus UFO vent or something like that.) Jury is out on the details

Scott: Great pics! Thanks for adding them to the thread.

[pdemarest]

Hey Blue - as always, great photos and detail. Thanks. My move towards a residential fridge was a way to get better cooling and more capacity, but that Vitrifrigo 8.1 2 door fridge looks very interesting. At $1,800 its a more expensive option but I like the idea of it being AC/DC. This would be great for saving battery power when we find ourselves with hookups and more importantly at home, where we have used the Chinook fridge for Thanksgiving, Christmas and parties when our house fridge runs out of room. Really like the 2 door SS model and it has a flange and door locks for travel.

Looks like I'll be on the road by noon tomorrow (Thursday). I go to AM Solar around 10:00 so they can walk me through the system and then I'm headed down I-5 into some heavy rain and possibly snow. I have chains but the last time I put chains on a car I was in my 40s so I'm hoping they have some chain monkeys around in case I do have to chain up.

Thanks for all the info.

Paul

[Blue~Go]

Even though a marine type DC (and they can often run off AC too as you mentioned*) refrigerator may not be your ultimate choice, it's good to be able to weigh the various options. By the way, I just looked up the DP2600 in black, and Sure Marine's price is listed as $1,532 ($1724 in stainless) BUT, that's the minimum allowable advertised price (set by mfgr.). If you call them they will give their actual price. They just aren't allowed to put a lower price online. (Which is mentioned there, so it's not like they are doing some kind of cagey deal.) Not like it's going to be half or anything; my guess would be maybe $100-$200 less (?). They're easy folks to call and speak with on the phone.

Now just don't look at the Force 10 marine propane ranges

BG

*Some models are offered in DC only at a slightly reduced price, but usually also come in AC/DC versions as well. It's typically like $100 difference.

[A Rooney]

General comment:
I have been lurking on the interchange around this subject/post,and have learned (absorbed) some due to the generous and detail posts.a couple personal thoughts: There is more than one way to skin a cat,(remove a refrigerator) upgrade or relate to chinook appliances according to each owners use/budget/philosophy.I would never have ventured that a big box Ac refer unit was even a possibility,with the solar real estate limits,and battery campartment size we live with.I am a big fan of well made systems,(as long as they fit my budget).I suppose I got that from work,were we eye what other tradesman bring to a job site.But though in the tool world Makita,Bosch,DeWalt,speak quality,I see guys do things just was well with their Ryobi,or Craftsman power tools.So if you have a system of,panels,batteries,inverters,Chargers,that meet your needs,and is balanced and Works when and how you need it to...that's what counts.(different strokes,there is no one and only way)The great thing is to read a post like this,where there are several approaches,to a single issue,and then decide for yourself what course is right for you.I remember when this site began,and it was seen as detracting from the yahoo group,and though that was never intended,the layout,software,and warm moderating here,have really helped this site flourish,and it is a good asset to have IMO along with Yahoo.So many thanks for this interesting thread,and as always to the friendly generous contributions of the site Moderators/administrators and fellow members. Rooney

[pdemarest]

Agree with Rooney. When I started down this road to adding solar power I was skeptical of the potential but soon became convinced that solar offers many advantages for an RVer. After dropping my unit off this project actually evolved throughout the installation week as I got input from the installers AND posters on this thread. The result is that thanks to this forum I have a much better system than I would have asked for based on my own limited knowledge. The best part of this forum is that no one seems to "take sides" so its always safe to offer up a different opinion or solution.

[Blue~Go]

The best part of this forum is that no one seems to "take sides" so its always safe to offer up a different opinion or solution.

I like that about it too. The recognition that there are many ways to do things, and rarely one sole "best" way. Especially when there are so many different ways to use a Chinook (plus individual taste, etc.). Makes discussions pleasant.

If you felt like showing off your new system(s), I'm sure I'm not the only one who'd enjoy a look-see (although I also understand privacy, so no pressure).

[SMan]

Another comment:

I have never been able to successfully navigate Yahoo groups Chinook forum and find the answers I am looking for which is why I spend my "Chinook Time" on this forum. I am on a number of forums dedicated to classic cars and have always been bothered by how dismissive people can be of others' ideas. Can some ideas be "better"? Well sure, but finding a solution that works for you is all that really matters. I truly appreciate this place.

[A Rooney]

I also would love to hear/see more details of what your upgrade involved...,I also realize that many of us are raised correctly to avoid talking $$$$ but if you are one of those not offended by sharing costs that will be great,and fine as well if you chose not.Some find even asking that question in the poorest of manners(if that's you please forgive my nosy inquisitiveness.The reason I ask is due to mong others,was my recent investigation of the new kodiak inergy lithium,and its present cost of $1,7500 without panels.I did all my own upgrade work and spent that easy...as for AM solar I investigated their site and it seems like The Place to go for folks who know quality rv upgrades,but of course all Quality comes with a well worth it price.What fascinates me about the potential of the new kodiak system that it's almost a do it yourself plugin all in one box thingy.IF nothing else keep us informed of how your new system performs,one advantage of Lead battery systems is they do have a long track record of performance the engineering is established by time.As for the yahoo group I really like the focus of their thread,but posting a long detailed post is almost impossible.It is also so difficult to navigate archive wise that the same questions are repeated indefinitely.But again of course that was the original intent of those involved with this sites beginning,(to overcome the limitations there)and it has proved true.I never get the feel that those in control there or here are interested in Control and that's a testament.Rooney