Bike Hitch Rack

[Blue~Go]

The rear door does build character But it also makes for a pretty slick layout in such a small rig and good tankage (large propane, indoor water tank). Just be glad you no longer have the original Class A sized refrigerator if you think the doorway is narrow now. I called it "the fallopian tube" getting past that thing. Granted the door itself is still narrow, but without the refrigerator the whole entry feels much more spacious (of course some people like the large refrig, and that's cool too).

Those van layouts look familiar. We had similar ones "back in the day" for kayaking. And for the past year or so I've toyed with the idea of outfitting one of the newer high vans. But I keep coming back to how much value the Chinook provides and although I could kind of give or take the "full bath," I do love the big tanks. And it's just nice to be able to "pace a bit" in bad weather I do sometimes miss the side doors from my previous camper van though. (On the other hand, in some situations the extra privacy is nice. I have my door open now and am in a "less desirable" camp spot, but it doesn't feel like it takes away from my privacy. Oh, and the "real" screen door is nice.

I consider "the other side" (passenger side/dining area) to be kind of a free form space. The couch side is fairly busy with potable water tank/water heater/plumbing/and for me batteries and electrical. But the other side, especially if you remove( .... or ahem... in your case just don't have) the furnace. Four feet of flat floor, pretty unimpeded, plus a bit of wheelwell for the other two feet. So it could be a bike emporium

I was going to say more about that side, but that's probably better in the other thread for "Shell." (You've gotta name it Shelly, right? )

[pushx]

This post blew my mind. I have wanted to do something similar, but since I haven't had my chinook for very long I am worried about potentially damaging the shell. So how exactly did you get access to the interior of the shell in order to attach the bolts? This has got me scratching my head. And how strong is the shell when you attach things like this? Is there some kind of studs or frame that you are attaching to?

And thank you so, so much. Not only is this proof this method is feasible, but so cheap, too! I hadn't known about VHB tape either. Just amazing.

More bike rack info.

The top hooks are mounted with 3M very high bond (VHB) adhesive tape and the supplied screws. The tape provides the bonding and it is incredibly strong. We snagged the bikes on a dump water hose once (ouch) and pulled so hard, it bent the hook and broke the bike wheel. The bond was not affected in any way. When I had to remove the bent hook, I cut the bond with a razor, but got impatient and pulled the last bit, and it actually pulled off some of the gelcoat! (ouch again). I repaired the gouge with marine epoxy, but it is hidden under the replacement hook. the bent hook was so strong I could not straighten it, even with a vise!

The fork blocks are also mounted with VHB tape, but also have carriage bolts with washers and nuts inside. The forks are turned inward and mounted "upside down" in the blocks, which makes the mounting much more compact by reducing the height. There is a cavity formed above the handlebars and between the rear wheels where we stuff the front wheels.

We use Velcro straps to tie the front wheels together at one point (the top), and then strap the bottoms to the handlebars and frames. We strap the two handlebars together, so both bikes and front wheels all act as a single mass attached to the wall, so it is very stable. We carried the bikes for over 20,000 miles with no troubles, other than the aforementioned water hose snag, and a couple of fabric covers shredded in the wind. We also strap the pedals to keep them from rubbing against the walls (lesson learned).

Here is a parts list (all from Amazon):

VHB Tape:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012R ... UTF8&psc=1

Top Hooks:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000F ... UTF8&psc=1

Fork Blocks:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012 ... UTF8&psc=1

Velcro Straps:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XFV6YTJ/re ... rd_w=eGZZP

I can mount the bikes standing on the ground (I'm 5' 10") and it's not difficult. There is a twisting motion to get the tire on and off the hook, which is a little tricky at first. I have more confidence in the top hook holding the weight (after "the incident") so I don't worry so much about getting the forks in the block before releasing the weight from my arms, which makes it a little easier to load/unload.

More pics:

IMG_20160214_162032375.jpg

IMG_20160214_162028466.jpg

IMG_20160214_162015693.jpg

Clay

[caconcourse]

This post blew my mind. I have wanted to do something similar, but since I haven't had my chinook for very long I am worried about potentially damaging the shell. So how exactly did you get access to the interior of the shell in order to attach the bolts? This has got me scratching my head. And how strong is the shell when you attach things like this? Is there some kind of studs or frame that you are attaching to?

Hi pushx,

The fiberglass shell is roughly 1/4 inch thick and will support the bikes and hangers without any problem. The top hangers each come with two screws that are suitable for wood, but also work in the fiberglass if you pre-drill a hole and do not overtighten. The tape provides the strength of the bond, so the screws help compress the tape for a strong bond and provide shear strength so the tape is not weakened by vibration or movement. The full weight of the bikes are carried by the fork blocks, so there is not much stress on the top hooks.

The area behind the fork blocks is accessible through the storage hatch in my unit. Older models have the outside shower on this panel, so the location of the blocks may have to be adjusted to avoid the shower plumbing. The bolts are standard 1/4" carriage bolts around 1 1/2 inches long, which fit in a slot in the fork blocks underneath the flange. Each block is held by two bolts, so there are two 1/4" holes drilled through the shell behind each block. In my unit, there is carpet on the wall behind the shell, so washers and bolts tighten down against the carpet in the back.

To get the spacing and tilt angles I set up the hooks and blocks on the floor with the bikes on top and adjusted the forks and handlebars to get the least interference. Then I measured the distances between the hooks and blocks and used those measurements for mounting on the shell. You could "practice" mounting the hooks and blocks on a piece of plywood, if you are worried about how things fit.

The tape is similar in color and size to the butyl tape used to seal flanges on the Chinook, but of course has the strong adhesive. I put two strips side by side on each hook and fork block, then trimmed around the metal, so the entire mounting surface is adhesive. The tape also provides an effective water seal around the screw/bolt holes, similar to butyl tape.

Hope this helps,
Clay

[pushx]

Thanks for your reply and the additional info. Its amazing how I keep learning more about the Chinook the more I work on it. I opened the storage area, looked up and sure enough, I've got access to the bottom of the sink and easy access to install the fork blocks. It looks like I shouldn't have issues with the plumbing either, lots of room in there.

I'll most likely do a test run as you said, to get the measurements right for our bikes. Its interesting to hear as well that the weight is held on the fork blocks, not the hooks. I'll make sure to position the blocks so that the hooks are used more for 'securing' than 'holding'. I may look into welding some metal onto the fork blocks to increase the surface area for the hbt, and add a couple more bolts.

[caconcourse]

I may look into welding some metal onto the fork blocks to increase the surface area for the hbt, and add a couple more bolts.

You won't need to beef up these fork blocks or add bolts, they're very strong. Drilling more bolt holes will probably weaken the wall rather than strengthen the bond. In this case the bolts provide enough strenth by themselves to support the bikes. The tape is like adding suspenders to a belt for extra safety, plus the tape provides a good permanent water seal.

[pushx]

You won't need to beef up these fork blocks or add bolts, they're very strong. Drilling more bolt holes will probably weaken the wall rather than strengthen the bond. In this case the bolts provide enough strenth by themselves to support the bikes. The tape is like adding suspenders to a belt for extra safety, plus the tape provides a good permanent water seal.

Good point on adding more bolts weakening the wall. I'll stick to your template. I've ordered the parts from Amazon, I hope to get to this project soon after I clean and polish the rv!

[chin_k]

As Clay mentioned, his experience is that the fork block is strong enough. But if you are really worried, you may be able to weld a larger base onto it, but with same size/count of bolt over a larger area. Use a piece of plywood on the inside for the washer and bolt to grab onto. I think if a bike does fall of, it is most likely due to operator error.

[Astrodokk]

Here's my set up. My bikes weren't worth more than 1K each when new. I usually have only two on there but it can take up to four.
I used to ride a lot when I was younger and in shape. I think I bought this at an Army PX years ago. It fits into the receiver.
When fully engaged but empty, the rear door on the rig opens easily. With bikes on it, the rack can be easily lowered backwards to one stop or all the way to almost horizontal so that the door can open without hitting the bike tires. I just have to be able to climb the step from the side, and luckily I can still do that.

[Astrodokk]

Weighs a ton though lol

[greattrails]

I'm putting together a system to carry an electric fat tire bike on the back of my '99 Concourse. I'm posting it here for review. If anyone sees a problem after reading this please feel free to advise.

Constraints:

1. The bike (probably a RadRover) likely needs to be covered when driving (verifying this now) and so don't want to do a front rack. Concerned about overheating the engine. https://www.radpowerbikes.com/products/ ... c-fat-bike
2. The bike weighs 61 lbs w/o the battery which limits the rack selection
3. I spend most of my time on public lands and so the setup needs to be sturdy and resilient.
4. I still want to be able to use the rear door of the Chinook

My potential solution is a swing away adapter like the Thule Access (https://www.rackwarehouse.com/thule-903 ... -base.html) plugged into the hitch and a Thule T1 rack (https://www.thule.com/en-us/us/bike-rac ... -t1-_-9041) plugged into that since it's capable of carrying a 60lb bike.

The rear step is mechanical and I'm assuming it will need to stay folded up. I realize I may need a hitch extension for the swing away unit to function properly.

Thanks in advance!