The cables are falling apart in a couple places, so I am planning to redo most of them.
Originally, the two coach batteries are connected together on the positive and negative terminals with #2AWG cables. I disconnected the positive parallel cable, and connect each of the positive terminal to a two-battery disconnect switch with two #1/0 cables. One of these cable is longer than the other one to balance them. Now, I know some of you will noticed that the negative parallel cable is different gauge, and it is not going to balance well. This is why I am trying to figure out if I should replace the (-) with a #1/0 cable, or I should replace the 1 (-) and two (+) cables with a larger wire, such as #2/0 or even #4/0. To go with #2/0, it will be $3 more per cable compare to the #1/0. But to go with #4/0, it is $15 more each.
My main concern is not the price, but how difficult it is to wrestle the cables the switch if I get the #4/0. Any suggestion?
What gauge to inter-connect the coach batteries?
What gauge to inter-connect the coach batteries?
2000 Concourse dinette, on 1999 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis
Re: What gauge to inter-connect the coach batteries?
It's really a function of how much current will be going through the cables. So figure out your largest draws (or "pushes"), and we can go from there.
Common "big" items:
1) Inverter or Inverter/charger (draw can be quite large, as if you have lead acid batteries Peukert effect can draw down the voltage, so say if you are microwaving and the batteries dip to 10.x volts that can be a big chunk of amps).
2) Alternator charging
3) Shore power charging
Then you need to know length of your primary wires (especially any from battery to inverter/charger if you have one).
So let us know what you have and post back?
I tend to find that 2/0 is a good number and a good balance but with a larger inverter/charger and microwave I might want to go to 4/0). I find that two things really help when working with small spaces and large cables:
1) Having your own crimper tool so you can orient the lugs "just so" - makes a big difference.
2) Using copper bar stock instead of cables for things that are really close together (and don't move, so not a good idea for batteries themselves). For example, between switch and main positive bus, or between shunt and main negative bus. Catch is that everything has to be at the same height so sometimes requires a little fiddling.
Common "big" items:
1) Inverter or Inverter/charger (draw can be quite large, as if you have lead acid batteries Peukert effect can draw down the voltage, so say if you are microwaving and the batteries dip to 10.x volts that can be a big chunk of amps).
2) Alternator charging
3) Shore power charging
Then you need to know length of your primary wires (especially any from battery to inverter/charger if you have one).
So let us know what you have and post back?
I tend to find that 2/0 is a good number and a good balance but with a larger inverter/charger and microwave I might want to go to 4/0). I find that two things really help when working with small spaces and large cables:
1) Having your own crimper tool so you can orient the lugs "just so" - makes a big difference.
2) Using copper bar stock instead of cables for things that are really close together (and don't move, so not a good idea for batteries themselves). For example, between switch and main positive bus, or between shunt and main negative bus. Catch is that everything has to be at the same height so sometimes requires a little fiddling.
1999 Concourse
Re: What gauge to inter-connect the coach batteries?
I think the thickest wire anywhere on the Chinook is #2 AWG that the previous owner installed for her 1500W inverter. I am going to replace that eventually. If I leave thing as-is, I don't think I need anything bigger than the existing #2 between the batteries. The interconnect is only like 8 inch long. Right now, I just want to replace the bad wiring work, not really upgrade. But since the price between #1/0 and #2/0 or even #4/0 is nominal, I wonder if I should go with the #4/0 and get it done once, and never have to bother when I upgrade the inverter, etc.. The main concern here is how workable is the #4/0 cables (one from each batteries) going to be when I want to connect them to the cut-off switch. I do have hydraulic cable crimper, and planning to make my own cable.
2000 Concourse dinette, on 1999 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis
Re: What gauge to inter-connect the coach batteries?
I have 2/0 interconnects (and also the leads out to the switch, primary bus bars, shunt, etc on the house system). Basically all the heavy cables. I don't have a big inverter/charger/microwave type situation, and I also have very short leads out to the bus bars - something like 16". That's not to say you might not need 4/0, but 2/0 is a bit easier to work with, and yet still hefty.
That may sound a bit vague, but without a drawing or view of your system, it's hard to say for sure.
And yeah, this is much larger than stock, but then some parts of the stock system are woefully under-wired (especially by today's standards). There may not even be a main battery bank fuse (because the 8AWG going out to the charger/loads is really too small to practically fuse). So there is no shame in upgrading a bit, especially once you know how you like to use the unit.
That may sound a bit vague, but without a drawing or view of your system, it's hard to say for sure.
And yeah, this is much larger than stock, but then some parts of the stock system are woefully under-wired (especially by today's standards). There may not even be a main battery bank fuse (because the 8AWG going out to the charger/loads is really too small to practically fuse). So there is no shame in upgrading a bit, especially once you know how you like to use the unit.
1999 Concourse