tips or tricks for install vinyl cargo compt. trim

[Flame]

I have ordered 100 ft of vinyl trim from local rv store to replace around the 3 large fiberglass doors on my 1998 concourse and also the 2 pieces that are right behind the cab door. Any tips or advise for doing this? I don't want to screw something up. Do I need silicone,any glue,anything special to hold it in place? Technique I should know about? Thanks

[Blue~Go]

I'll be interested to hear what folks have to say. I have some too but haven't installed it yet.

When I did some heavier rubber molding that fit into a channel in a similar way, I put it into a bucket of warm soapy water before installing -- but that may not be necessary with this lightweight vinyl.

I would say noooOOOOoo silicone. But that's me

For starters I would cut it a few inches long, just to be sure. Then think about where I wanted the seam to end up and start there. Then when coming around to the beginning again, perhaps cut it a bit long and sort of "push" the extra into place. That way it may try to constantly close the gap vs. shrinking into a bigger gap (just a general tip from similar type installations).

I think someone on here did do this exact job though (Skillet?). They recommended a specific brand as being better than the Camco they first tried, and I laid in a supply but haven't used it yet. Maybe whomever it is will post some tips.

[kdarling]

Basically, you need patience

After a few feet you'll figure out what works for you.

A tiny screwdriver helped me insert it into places where inside screws or curves fought back.

I didn't precut the length. Just started at the middle bottom and went around clockwise until I met up again.

Kev

[Flame]

Thank you. I do remember from restoring old classic cars to leave the cut ends to the bottom of truck and door seals just in case of any water. It would still run down and could exit at the bottom crack. My rv store owner asked if I had 1/2 or 3/4 inch trim and said to flatten it out and measure across it. I must have measured it 10 times and I swear it measures 5/8 inch total across. I don't know what size he ordered me but is supposed to be here later this week. Probably a good thing because even here in Texas it is 34 degrees this morning!!! Dang...what happened to Spring!!

[Colorider]

Do it while it's warm outside. Some brands get firmer than others in the cold, but they're all more pliable when warm. It's not hard, just get ready for sore fingers.

[Flame]

Well, I did all 3 compartment doors yesterday. Took me about 2 hours. 80 degrees outside and I had let the roll of vinyl set in sun for about 2 hours before installing. Yep...my finger tips are sore today!! But I plan still to tackle the 2 vertical strips behind the driver/pass door. Once removing the old vinyl I used a toothbrush as someone recommended to clean the "track". Also used a pointed scribe and ran all the way around the grooves and then blew out with air before installing the new. NOTE: This is a great time to tighten the screws holding the track in place. For whatever reason many of mine had backed out or were never tightened well before. I poked a hole in the CENTER of the bag holding the roll of vinyl and just started installing. I too did not precut. Looks great. Take your time on the corners. They are the hardest. Make sure you see NO GAP of any kind in the corners.I used no glue or silicone.

[Blue~Go]

Thanks for the report. I have a couple of compartments that could use the treatment, and the step-by-step is motivating. Just because I like to see behind stuff, I hope you'll show the "guts" behind the cab/coach vertical tracks. I suppose it's just another track with screws, but... I wanna see!

Oh... I forgot about this before, but you mentioning sore fingertips reminded me: I used a plastic screen spline roller tool (the roller, too, was plastic) when I did the insert I mentioned earlier. It's kind a like a little plastic pizza cutter. The insert was larger and heavier, so not sure the tip would transfer to ours, but it did help on that.

BG

PS: Oh, so what size did the package say? I was under the impression ours was the 1/2" size, but you had mentioned 5/8" in your earlier post?

[Flame]

Dang Blue, I meant to mention the size and forgot. Thanks for reminding me. Ours actually uses 3/4 inch. I know it measured 5/8 on the old stuff, but maybe it shrinks up when it gets old. (where have I heard that before?) Anyway...the new stuff measures exactly 3/4 inch. Also very important note: It only goes on one way!! There is a "front" and "back" to the new stuff. When you "bow" it one way it will not stick in the grooves of the track. So at first if you have trouble getting it to stay "snapped" in make sure you are bowing it correctly. Hope that made sense. Ask me how I know this? Ha!!

[Flame]

Well, I just did both vertical strip pieces behind the cabin doors and they were the hardest of all. Took me 2 hours just to do those 2. Lesson learned: If you don't want to drop your fiberglass runningboard down or use a tiny short phillup screwdriver in a very tight place to install the bottom part of the trim, here is what I did. After fighting the passenger side I chose not to even remove the lower screw on the bottom of the driver side. Instead I just took a razorblade and cut the old vinyl free from the screw and placed a new screw in the new vinyl a little lower and easier to get to!!. By the way Blue, the track looks just like the others. Also fyi to do all 3 compartment boxes and both vertical strips behind the doors I used 36 feet of material. Each vertical strip used 6 foot. I bought a 100 ft roll for $16.95 at the local rv shop. Could darn near do them all 3 times out of that one roll.

[Blue~Go]

Thanks for the report! I was most curious about those vertical strips. I've also always been really curious about how they work that area in the later models that have the hatch doors and vertical join area "sans strips." I know how the compartment doors work, because a friend has that style (you can buy both now) - they fasten from the backside. But was just always curious how that fiberglass forward edge was attached to the Ford body in the later models, since it's hard to get to the back of that area even with the seat belt pillar covers off. I realize you won't know, since we both have the model with the strips --- but I haven't even seen the strip off in that area.

I'll have to look at where the strip joins the running board area so that your tip makes sense. I bet it will come in handy though.