1999 Chinook Premiere Reno In Process

[chin_k]

I am shooting in the dark, probably aiming at my foot.... is it possible that wheel bearing issue?

[Blue~Go]

I've been having the same problem Blue mentions, in a big storm with water streaming down side of rig and collecting in the track.

This conversation just made me think, "Just drill a few new or enlarge the existing holes.

Bill

I wouldn't be surprised if you have the same windows I do, because mine is a very early '99. Are they the ones that have the funny (and "unobtanium") screen clips? And the screen sort of rides half in and half out of the track and is supported by the clips?

If so, I'm not sure that the water coming in would interface with more weep holes. I guess I'll have to take a look tomorrow. It comes in via the joint between the movable and non-moving part of the window, in the track. It hasn't been a "front burner" thing because I have been in some absolute deluges where it wasn't a problem. Only the couple of times that it coincided with a major side wind. And, come to think of it, only on the couch side. Has yours done it on the table side ever?

Lisa: I can't tell from the photos if we have the same type of window (mine are the parallelogram Concourse ones at any rate). I also don't know if the pulled away rubber would have anything to do with it.

[Blue~Go]

Good idea! Also when you drive your Chinook around 62-75 does it have a vibration, say for instance my purse in the drivers seat shakes and you can feel it!

I have been working on that EXACT same issue for ages now (on and off). I do have a Ford chassis, FYI. Mine is an all over vibration (so likely not the front wheels). It would drive me even more crazy but I generally keep my speed closer to 60mph. Still, SO annoying.

So in my research it seems that typically, vibrations at lower speeds are driveline issues; but vibrations at higher speeds are very often wheels and tires. Mine is smooth as silk up to around 64mph. Nothing different around corners. Nothing while braking. Does it in neutral as well as in gear.

Hence, the first thing I did (mine has had it since I bought it early in 2014) was go to a tire expert and have the tires re-balanced (I had bought new tires just before driving the Chinook home; this was a couple of months later). Supposedly one rim was out of round (apparently a common Ford thing), and I sourced one from a junkyard that balanced out fine (or so they said...).

Over time (not specifically for fixing the vibration), I have had the driveshaft in and out (during transmission beefing up), an entire new 2014 front end (mostly for the brakes, but it included all new suspension parts), bearings done, new shocks, and two new front wheels and (again, just the front) tires. The latter were Hunter Road Force balanced and I had them do the new (reconditioned) wheels by themselves first and they said they were basically perfect. Then I had them (the front wheels and new front tires) done as mounted units. There is not much left as far as I can tell. Someone mentioned that a rear drum could be out of balance, but apparently that's not too likely.

The more I think about it, the more I think it's as I first suspected: A wheel/tire issue. This winter I'm going to go back to my first hunch and have each rear wheel/tire Hunter Road Force balanced (this is a more sophisticated machine than the typical old-fashioned ones that the "tire expert" used). Then we'll see. What I experience is consistent with it not being the front wheels as there is no more or different vibration in the steering wheel than, say, the passenger seat. If I were going to bet I'd put my money on a rear wheel or tire (which of course I thought I had ruled out.... not so sure anymore).

I have had and driven many other Ford vans and RV's in the past, and no, it's not normal or to be expected in my experience. I'm sure it's the same with Chev.

[Sammy]

Well the tire shop I just took it to had the hunter road force machine and it did help. Your right it is an all over vibration and is not in the front end alignment as I have no vibration or pulling in the front. We did replace one of the rear hubs as it was slightly bent. Has new brakes, drums front and back.
I’m going to do what you said and the tire place where I got my tires suggested and get 2 wheels that are true to round and play with thisecto see what wheel is bent. This Chinook has been well taken care of and with only 13,000 miles when we got it says something I hope.
We will keep trying and I will keep you posted on any new finding to fix our problems!!

[Sammy]

Ok I have the square windows with no clips and I can’t even figure out how to remove the screens to clean the back it the windows. There are no screws anywhere to be found. Here’s a pic of one like ours. I’m going to check and clean my gutters. And the time the gutter filled up was when the van was not perfectly level and the rain probably was running more towards the table side and that’s who’s that gutter filled up.
You have been so helpful and thanks!
Good luck on the Reno!!!

[Blue~Go]

I can't speak to your specific screens (ours with the clips practically fall out on their own which I guess is now a feature ). But I have had other things with screens in tracks. Typically there are some "springs" (oftentimes just bent pieces of metal but you can't see them while the screens are in place) that hold the screen either "up" in the track or "down" in the track. So for example if the springs were on top you would then push the screen upwards (sometimes pretty hard) in the track, the spring would compress, and then the screen would go up juuuuust enough to come out of the track at the bottom. Or vice-versa. Maybe try that if you haven't?

That said, most RV screens I have seen (even the clippy ones!) will just slide in the tracks same as the window does. So you can slide them back and forth and by virtue of that, you can clean the windows on all sides.

PS: Not to discourage you from posting, but I have a suggestion: When you are starting a new topic, either start a new thread, or if you find a thread on that exact topic, then go ahead and tack onto the end of that thread. You are more likely to get good responses, and it makes it easier for future Chinookers who need the same info. Also if you have two completely different topics (windows and wheels for example), put the questions in two different threads vs. together. No worries about this time though - we are glad you are here!

[eporter123]

On my Premier “kitchen” window I had to pry up an inverted U-channel out of the screen channel to let the screen drop down enough to then get lifted out. My big window screens just flexed enough to pop in & out.

[BobW9]

On the vibration issue, I thought I'd mention a very hard to find problem with my old Ford Bronco. Way back in 1986 I bought it (back when trucks were cheap and solid, before they almost became a fashion statement and prices doubled), and after a year or more it developed vibrations at some higher speeds. After years and many times trying to get it resolved, by Ford and others, I was at a tire shop getting the wheels rebalanced, yet again, and told the guy. He pulled everything off, dismounted all the tires from the wheels, and just spent some time looking at it and thinking. Then he started feeling around the inside of the lug holes in the wheels, where the bolts come through. He told me he could feel wear. Looking closer he found that the wheels had bigger holes than the bolts, instead of fitting fairly close. Turned out the dealer I bought the car from years early had installed some after-market wheels to make it look cooler and sell - but the ones they put on had lug holes that were too large for my stock bolts, so they just snugged the lugs real tight, forcing the lug into the middle of the wheel (so the wheel wasn't even touching the bolt). But since there was too much space, over time and bumping around, the lug holes in some of the wheels had been worn down in various ways as the lugs got worn from too much weight - no longer round. The vibrations were the wheels shifting ever-so-slightly around the bolts as I drove at various speeds and ground conditions, or how many people or cargo I was carrying. After buying new wheels, all vibrations were gone. After 6 years of vibrations it rode perfectly again.

Of course, a few months later I rolled it upside down coming over a slight rise, a little after noon, in the winter and starting down hill, only to find that entire hill was in shade all morning and frozen like a skating rink. I would have made it if the stupid car in front hadn't hit their brakes and started spinning, forcing me to brake too hard, to try to keep from crushing it. The car got lucky, I did not (and the car did not stop to check on me, either). I was so annoyed when I found later when a cop showed up that, yep, they knew about the problem. Had been nearly a dozen accidents that morning, 2 upside down, before me. What? Call a sand truck? Nope. Put some cones or an officer before the hill to warn people? Nope. They were too busy driving around responding to accidents!

Anyway, upshot - try to think outside the box. Sometimes the problem is unusual and not even many mechanics have seen it. And look for unusual wear around any parts, maybe even in the steering (like my worn gear teeth last year that eventually lost my steering entirely).

Good luck, vibrations suck,
Bob

[Blue~Go]

I'm actually excited to (this winter) remove each rear tire/wheel to re-check the original "expert's" conclusion that they were fine. That has always kind of nagged on me because it was one of those situations where, when I drove away and it was still vibrating, then he was utterly uninterested in delving into it (even for more $), and started suggesting things that didn't make sense given the symptoms (but would not involve him). Hmmmmm.....

It did improve very slightly (say 20%) when I put on the new front wheels. I tried to buy four more but the company never had them again and I lost steam.

I don't think the holes are too large (they are fairly difficult to line up and put on, because the holes are snug), and they are definitely Ford rims (made by Accuride), BUT I definitely agree with your good point to think outside the box on things. Actually just even thinking is good (ahem, first tire guy).

Luckily (I guess you could say), I have replaced most of the usual culprits over the years, mostly for other reasons (for example, new 2014 front end for the brakes, but that pretty much eliminated any front suspension or brake parts).

I will be mildly crushed if re-doing the rear wheels doesn't fix it, but I'll cross that bridge when I come to it.

This summer I'm pretty much all on two-lane highways, so the vibration threshhold is rarely even wanted to be crossed (55mph roads with plenty of 35mph curves thrown in, whee!)