Looking for a pre 1997 Chinook concourse Owner

[caconcourse]

No, not jacked up, it was a tight fit in places. Like I said, I'm glad that it's done.
I am however, looking for someone else who has replaced their charger/converter on similar model (95 Concourse), got a couple of questions about things not covered in replacement instructions.

Hi Alan,
I saw your post on the other forum. Here is some information.

Attached is a picture "Magnatek Before", showing my original converter before the conversion.

There are three compartments: an AC distribution section (upper left), a DC distribution section (upper right), and the converter (below). Your layout should be the same, but your converter electronics in the bottom were quite different.

I found a manual for your original Magnatek (Parallax) 6345 converter. (see attachment).

Magnatek 6300Manual.pdf

(2.34 MiB) Downloaded 296 times

The 6300 series is a little different from the 7300 series we have in the later Chinooks, but the PD conversion process is pretty much the same. The PD unit has two sets of wires, an AC group (black/white/green), and a DC group (larger black/white). There is also a wizard cable with a 4-pin connector on each end.

The AC group goes out the left top hole of the new converter straight up into the AC distribution compartment above the controller.

The AC compartment has the big black AC circuit breakers (on the right), a terminal block for the AC white wires (far left), and a terminal block (top left) for the AC ground (green or bare copper) wires.

The AC black wire is attached to the "Charger" black circuit breaker in the AC compartment. In my unit, the charger breaker is the third from the right of the five breakers. The AC white wire is attached to one of the screw terminals on the left terminal block, and the AC green wire (ground) is attached to one of the screw terminals on the top left. This is the "ground bus" referred to in the installation (one of your original questions).

The DC wires (black/white) from the new converter go through the right top hole straight into the DC distribution compartment. The DC compartment has the DC distribution circuit card (replaced in the upgrade). One difference in the old 6300 vs 7300 converter is that there are two DC positive wires (red? and blue) in the 6300 instead of one black wire in the 7300. Both units had a white DC negative wire. In your case, the blue wire you disconnected from the DC card should have been attached to your old converter and removed when you took out the old one. If you still have it dangling (your original question), or if it is connected to something there is something amiss as it should have gone away when you took out the old bottom unit. Perhaps the original wiring was changed by the previous owner, related to your other 12V problems. If you still have it in the cabinet, it should not go anywhere, and can be removed. The new PD converter black (DC positive) and white (DC negative) should connect to the new DC board according to the instructions.

Finally the wizard cable should be connected to the new converter (front left connector on the converter card) and run through the top right hole to the DC distribution card connector.

You other question regard a "gray wire" run to the DC distibution section needs more clarification in order to answer. There are many DC supply wires run to the fuse panel. (Was the gray wire one of those?) You should have moved all of them from the old DC card to the new one, along with the fuses. I am out of pictures for this post, so I will add another post with pictures of the before and after DC boards.

Anyway, Hope this will answer some of your questions.

Clay

[caconcourse]

More pictures for the Magnatek to PD converter upgrade.

The Magnatek DC section before:

The PD DC Wires:

And the completed assembly after the conversion.

This shows the new DC distribution with all of the DC wires and fuses, along with the wizard connector and cable. The new DC card has two additional low current circuits, and one additional regular DC circuit, compared to the original. I skipped over the low current and maintained the algnment and placement of the original circuits. There is an unpopulated spare circuit left on the right. I may move the parasite circuit (LP detector,etc) to one of the low current circuits later.

Clay

[kyidletime]

Thanks Clay. I got my replacement project completed today and everything seems to be working ok. As far as the blue wire goes, I'm going to assume that it is no longer needed with the new unit. That leaves the gray wire, I still don't really know what to do with it. On the old setup it was hooked to a terminal along with the white wire on the front of the old distribution block.

[caconcourse]

That leaves the gray wire, I still don't really know what to do with it. On the old setup it was hooked to a terminal along with the white wire on the front of the old distribution block.

The white wire is DC minus or DC ground. Someone must have added a device that needed a DC ground connection, maybe as part of whatever went on with the new relay and toggle switch, all of which is hopefully obsolete with your new installation.

Maybe that blue was part of the same scheme, no longer necessary.

Good luck,
Clay

[Blue~Go]

Been offline for a couple of days, and your whole Chinook is remodeled

My guess would be that caconcourse is on the right track. I think every single ground wire in my Chinook has been white (unless it's on a component manufactured by someone else; but I mean all of Chinook's own house wiring). There is one grey positive wire in my rig (on one of the fuses in the fuse block), but that's a clearly labelled positive wire on its own fuse just like all the other small supply wires (IIRC it went to the detectors).

I take it you weren't able to use the same hole that the previous #8 feed wire used though the floor? Maybe, like on my rig it's sort of under the driver's side pillar...

Anyway, sounds like you're going great guns

[kyidletime]

Thanks again Clay and you too BG. I left the gray wire disconnected but in place just in case its need shows up later. As far running the 6 gauge wire, on my rig I couldn't use the same entry point as the old 8 gauge wire as it was not accessible. My Blue Sea 7622 should arrive today or tomorrow, hopefully that project will go well. I want to get rid of that battery disconnect switch under my hood too. What do you think of those switches that mount right on the battery post?

[Blue~Go]

As far running the 6 gauge wire, on my rig I couldn't use the same entry point as the old 8 gauge wire as it was not accessible.

Understood. Mine wasn't either until later when I removed the driver's side "beauty pillar." By then I had already come up with a better arrangement anyway.

My Blue Sea 7622 should arrive today or tomorrow, hopefully that project will go well.

On that you will want to keep the wire runs as short as possible, and use large gauge wire. Reason is that will carry large numbers of amps. Not only the potential 50+ from alternator to house battery, but also the high starting current if you "self jump start." (On my rig that's around 150 amps, not counting inrush current.) If you like, once you figure out the length(s), shoot me a PM as I may have some left over pieces of large cable that would work.

I want to get rid of that battery disconnect switch under my hood too. What do you think of those switches that mount right on the battery post?

I haven't seen those - sound interesting. Can you post a link to one?

[kyidletime]

I think that I got an Amazon link added, but if not just do a search on EBay, or Amazon, for "battery disconnect".

[Blue~Go]

Okay, I searched them on Amazon. I guess I see a couple of things that would make me go another direction. I do see the appeal, but...

1) Most of the rotary switch ones are not rated high enough, although I did find a 200 amp one.

2) The ones with the big two part "electric chair knife blade" switch just look like way too much leverage on a battery post.

3) This is the kicker for me..... where do you then mount a fuse or breaker?

So I would still go with an MRBF (fuse) right on the terminal, and then a switch (I like Blue Sea, but there are others that are well rated, such as the Marinco and probably many others I'm not familiar with).

But that's not to say that there aren't ways I don't know about or would not choose.

[kyidletime]

Thanks for your opinion, I agree, they do look a little on the cheap side, and maybe not reliable. If I go with the Blue Sea switch, should I put it on my battery negative cable or the positive.
Another thing, have you seen the installation diagram for the Blue Sea 7622? If not I might scan it and attach it so that you can see it, just in case that I have any questions.