Solar
Solar
Besides what may have come from the factory, anyone add solar or have pics? At some point I want to get a 200+watt panel(s). I found one that is long and skinny and I think would work on the passenger side, but that's about it. I do like being able to get up on the roof to access vents and such so I don't want to cover it all up.
'02 Concourse where there's always a project going on...
Re: Solar
I'm just on the verge of doing a "full" solar install - I have a couple of final decisions to make and then "go!" That said, I'm helping a friend to do some fiberglassing/plumbing on his non-Chinook RV, and he's ready for me to start mixing epoxy, so I guess I have to get up off the couch now instead of writing more about it. Hmph 
1999 Concourse
Re: Solar
With what little room we have on the roof, I'm definitely interested in seeing what you're going to do. I spoke with a salesman at Solarpenny.com and he said their 100w panels are 47"x 22". My stock solar panel is 48x13. I'm waiting to see what he says about that. If I recall tho, did you say you removed the a/c?
'02 Concourse where there's always a project going on...
Re: Solar
Okay, I have a bit more time today.
I did remove the Air-Con unit from my roof, however that's not completely connected to my solar plans. I just had no need for 100+ pounds/big hump of AC on the roof. I'm going to put another vent there because I like lots of light, even when I may be someplace with the curtains closed (AC hole is standard vent sized hole).
That said, I now could use that space for a larger panel if I wanted to, but I'm thinking I want to leave it so the AC could be put back in future. All of my plans leave the cab-over roof area open, because I kneel there to clean off the front of the overcab.
I'm going to go to a compressor type refrigerator, so that's what's driving the amount of power I want.
My two plans (of course there might be a third or fourth plan, but these are my top contenders now), are either of these:
1) 470 watts, two series parallel pairs (but could be wired in parallel too) comprised of one 100-watt panel and one 135-watt panel on each side on the "middle tier" of the roof. (I have also removed the TV antenna - I don't watch it). The plus is that it's a lot of power, and can be optionally wired in series parallel. The downside is that the panels would slightly overlap the lowest tier (the one with the little railing on it) but not by much, and not over the actual edge of the vehicle. The Chinookers Journey have two of the 135 watt panels mounted similarly, although theirs come past the roofline more than mine would due to the way the brackets were mounted. These are Grape/AM Solar panels that are just under 21" wide. This would block off both side tiers (although there would be a small "landing pad" open at the top of the ladder), but would leave the top tier wide open.
2) A conglomeration of panels that would yield around 350 watts. This would be two 70-watt panels on the passenger side middle tier, one 70-watt panel on the driver's side middle tier, one 100-watt panel on the top tier (aft of the Air-Con hole), and, if voltage is close enough (I haven't turned panel over to look yet) the original panel Chinook put on also on the driver's side middle tier.
The negatives of #2 are that it is not as much wattage, the panels don't match so no series/parallel possible, I would need a panel on the top tier (aft of AC area) and the ladder landing pad would be reduced. Also, the 70-watt panels are an odd size that could be hard to replace in future if need be. Really the only plus to this plan is that the main panels don't overhang the edge of the middle tier. I have placed the panels for #1 option on the roof, and actually it doesn't look bad, to my eye. Still, nicer to have them tucked in more. Anyway, this is why I have not decided yet.... which one is better overall??
Of course if no compressor refrigerator (or other large use) then fewer watts may be perfectly fine. I have a friend who camps similarly to the way I do, but uses maybe 30% more power than I will even with the compressor refrigerator, and he has 500 watts of solar. So I'm loosely basing on that.
There is an "ace in the hole" though, which is that I have two flexible (thin) 100 watt panels (bought for something else) and I think I *might* be able to store them under the couch above the water tank. Not sure on that yet. The idea with those being that if I'm moving around often, I don't need as much solar because I'm charging via alternator, and then if I stay in one place awhile I could set the portable panels out. Bonus is they could be in full sun if I wanted to park rig in partial shade. So maybe then even fewer watts would be necessary on roof (but then setting out panels is a slight hassle, they are more prone to theft, etc.).
Anyway, these are my current thoughts. I have brackets ready to go, but am still slightly up in the air on the panels themselves. Meanwhile, I'm working out the arrangement of the "downstairs" stuff.
PS: As is probably obvious, I boondock pretty much all the time and only very rarely plug in. I'm used to living on DC and conserving, but now have "new" power requirements in the form of smart phone, computer, camera batteries to charge, etc. plus the refrigerator. Those make me more of a power hog than I used to be.
I did remove the Air-Con unit from my roof, however that's not completely connected to my solar plans. I just had no need for 100+ pounds/big hump of AC on the roof. I'm going to put another vent there because I like lots of light, even when I may be someplace with the curtains closed (AC hole is standard vent sized hole).
That said, I now could use that space for a larger panel if I wanted to, but I'm thinking I want to leave it so the AC could be put back in future. All of my plans leave the cab-over roof area open, because I kneel there to clean off the front of the overcab.
I'm going to go to a compressor type refrigerator, so that's what's driving the amount of power I want.
My two plans (of course there might be a third or fourth plan, but these are my top contenders now), are either of these:
1) 470 watts, two series parallel pairs (but could be wired in parallel too) comprised of one 100-watt panel and one 135-watt panel on each side on the "middle tier" of the roof. (I have also removed the TV antenna - I don't watch it). The plus is that it's a lot of power, and can be optionally wired in series parallel. The downside is that the panels would slightly overlap the lowest tier (the one with the little railing on it) but not by much, and not over the actual edge of the vehicle. The Chinookers Journey have two of the 135 watt panels mounted similarly, although theirs come past the roofline more than mine would due to the way the brackets were mounted. These are Grape/AM Solar panels that are just under 21" wide. This would block off both side tiers (although there would be a small "landing pad" open at the top of the ladder), but would leave the top tier wide open.
2) A conglomeration of panels that would yield around 350 watts. This would be two 70-watt panels on the passenger side middle tier, one 70-watt panel on the driver's side middle tier, one 100-watt panel on the top tier (aft of the Air-Con hole), and, if voltage is close enough (I haven't turned panel over to look yet) the original panel Chinook put on also on the driver's side middle tier.
The negatives of #2 are that it is not as much wattage, the panels don't match so no series/parallel possible, I would need a panel on the top tier (aft of AC area) and the ladder landing pad would be reduced. Also, the 70-watt panels are an odd size that could be hard to replace in future if need be. Really the only plus to this plan is that the main panels don't overhang the edge of the middle tier. I have placed the panels for #1 option on the roof, and actually it doesn't look bad, to my eye. Still, nicer to have them tucked in more. Anyway, this is why I have not decided yet.... which one is better overall??
Of course if no compressor refrigerator (or other large use) then fewer watts may be perfectly fine. I have a friend who camps similarly to the way I do, but uses maybe 30% more power than I will even with the compressor refrigerator, and he has 500 watts of solar. So I'm loosely basing on that.
There is an "ace in the hole" though, which is that I have two flexible (thin) 100 watt panels (bought for something else) and I think I *might* be able to store them under the couch above the water tank. Not sure on that yet. The idea with those being that if I'm moving around often, I don't need as much solar because I'm charging via alternator, and then if I stay in one place awhile I could set the portable panels out. Bonus is they could be in full sun if I wanted to park rig in partial shade. So maybe then even fewer watts would be necessary on roof (but then setting out panels is a slight hassle, they are more prone to theft, etc.).
Anyway, these are my current thoughts. I have brackets ready to go, but am still slightly up in the air on the panels themselves. Meanwhile, I'm working out the arrangement of the "downstairs" stuff.
PS: As is probably obvious, I boondock pretty much all the time and only very rarely plug in. I'm used to living on DC and conserving, but now have "new" power requirements in the form of smart phone, computer, camera batteries to charge, etc. plus the refrigerator. Those make me more of a power hog than I used to be.
1999 Concourse
Re: Solar
2004 Chinook Concourse (Sold and missed)
Re: Solar
If I can find 2 panels or one high wattage panel that would fit on the mid-tier, I would get it. From my measurements, around 18" it would start over-hanging the lower tier (where the hand rails are). Right now I'm even considering Renogy's portable solar-in-a-suitcase before I mount something on the roof, like you're going to put out your flexi panels. I think my eyes are bigger than my checkbook tho. My immediate project I'm going into next is getting rid of the carpeting and putting laminated flooring in. My big dollar projects I'd like to do within a year is solar and repainting the sucka.
'02 Concourse where there's always a project going on...
Re: Solar
Unrelated to this molar topic, but can you take pics and post up about your carpet removal and flooring install? I have the same plans in my near future.. I'm thinking to combine it with a sofa/dinette remodel, but not sure I have enough time
Re: Solar
I don't have much to post on this right now, as I have not done it yet, but I'm going to start a new thread for this topic (vs. solar) and I'll come back and put a link here. I think it's a great topic that deserves a thread. I hope lots of people post to it!Manitou wrote:Unrelated to this molar topic, but can you take pics and post up about your carpet removal and flooring install? I have the same plans in my near future.. I'm thinking to combine it with a sofa/dinette remodel, but not sure I have enough time
Edited to add: Okay, I started a thread in "Appliances and Interior" for tales of carpet removal and flooring replacement. Here is a direct link:
"Carpet Removal and New Flooring Install Thread:
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=115
1999 Concourse
Re: Solar
Back on the topic of solar. Can I add just 1 more panel without upgrading other pieces? (I.e. The solar charger regulator thingie and/or wire size)?
I'm just thinking about getting a little more juice and removed the old TV antenna (that gets no reception.. Analog vs. digital?).
I'm just thinking about getting a little more juice and removed the old TV antenna (that gets no reception.. Analog vs. digital?).
Re: Solar
I could probably address that, but I would need to know a couple of things:Manitou wrote:Back on the topic of solar. Can I add just 1 more panel without upgrading other pieces? (I.e. The solar charger regulator thingie and/or wire size)?
I'm just thinking about getting a little more juice and removed the old TV antenna (that gets no reception.. Analog vs. digital?).
1) What is your existing panel (voltage, i.e "vmp" and watts rating).
2) What size is the existing wiring (AWG number) connecting that panel to the batteries (and/or bus bar).
3) How long is that wire run (specify one-way or round trip).
4) What is the solar controller you have and/or what is the rating for what it can handle for input and the amps it will output.
With these figures then we could figure out what you could add and/or what you might need to change.
Off the top of my head, looking at my stock Chinook panel, I wouldn't add anything without changing the wiring (which is totally doable). I think the run from the controller to the batteries is ridiculously long and pretty well maxed out (and probably has a ton of voltage drop even as-is). However, the best way to figure it out is to get the facts above and then it's easily calculatable.
In my case I'm just putting in a new controller and putting it MUCH closer to the batteries (where it should be).
Okay, your turn
(should you choose to play)1999 Concourse