On my 2000 Concourse my double-paned coach windows on both sides have the inner seals shrinking up, creating the 'snakes' in between the panes that I've seen mentioned in other RV discussions. It got much worse this past winter and I think it is time I either replaced the windows or got the seals fixed. Only place I know to fix the seals is down in Florida, Suncoast Designers, for around $600. For that price, and considering I'd have to drive down to Florida for them to do it, it seems like I might be better off buying new windows from Motion Windows and installing them myself. An initial guess seems to place dual paned windows with mirror finish (which I like and want to keep) for around $800 plus shipping for the two windows. Problem is, I really, really, don't feel like removing the windows to get the exact rough-opening sizes for ordering, only to have to reseal them while I wait for the new windows, and then take them off again - I have no cover or garage to put the RV in, and am very leary of just using some tarps, in case of a thunderstorm with high winds.
Does anyone have the exact dimensions of the angled windows for the Concourse? From what I've seen, Chinook kept the mold for many years, so I don't think the windows changed between, say, 1997 and 2005?
Thanks,
Bob
Rough-out Coach Window dimensions Concourse
Re: Rough-out Coach Window dimensions Concourse
I don't have the dimensions, but I do have an idea. I presume your windows are clamp-ring construction. If so, then I think when you remove the clamp ring, you could see the window spigot and the rough opening from the inside (just be sure the window doesn't fall out, although unless your sealant is really far gone I imagine it wouldn't, but maybe a person on the outside is prudent).
This would hopefully also give you the thickness of the opening, which is key to having the clamp ring/spigot the right depth.
Another idea: Get a very close idea and then just know that if you had to, you could "ease" the opening slightly. If you go to the reference forum I posted "blueprints" that show the wall construction in the Concourse (1999 in this case). Basically it's two 1/2" pieces of plywood back-to-back lobbed up onto the inner side of the fiberglass shell and probably stuck on with their usual polyester "mush." Then they cut the hole for the window (or maybe it' was pre-cut) and pop it in. So you don't have tricky little bits of framing to worry about, but rather huge pieces of plywood with holes cut in them for the windows.
If I had to guess on the depth, I'd say 1-3/8" or 1-7/16" (not that I would like to only guess). That's 1/4" shell, 1" plywood, 1/8" wallboard, plus a bit for mush. The foam/fabric compresses.
BG
PS: I see that on the window drawing (which is the dining side) it says "38" x 75". But of course then it's a parallelogram. Might give you something to go on though. I think I had to reduce the drawings for the upload, so let me know if you can't read them. Here is a link:
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=278
PPS: Just FYI, the Premier walls are different - at least in some years. They have stick framed windows vs. the large plywood with cutouts.
This would hopefully also give you the thickness of the opening, which is key to having the clamp ring/spigot the right depth.
Another idea: Get a very close idea and then just know that if you had to, you could "ease" the opening slightly. If you go to the reference forum I posted "blueprints" that show the wall construction in the Concourse (1999 in this case). Basically it's two 1/2" pieces of plywood back-to-back lobbed up onto the inner side of the fiberglass shell and probably stuck on with their usual polyester "mush." Then they cut the hole for the window (or maybe it' was pre-cut) and pop it in. So you don't have tricky little bits of framing to worry about, but rather huge pieces of plywood with holes cut in them for the windows.
If I had to guess on the depth, I'd say 1-3/8" or 1-7/16" (not that I would like to only guess). That's 1/4" shell, 1" plywood, 1/8" wallboard, plus a bit for mush. The foam/fabric compresses.
BG
PS: I see that on the window drawing (which is the dining side) it says "38" x 75". But of course then it's a parallelogram. Might give you something to go on though. I think I had to reduce the drawings for the upload, so let me know if you can't read them. Here is a link:
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=278
PPS: Just FYI, the Premier walls are different - at least in some years. They have stick framed windows vs. the large plywood with cutouts.
1999 Concourse
Re: Rough-out Coach Window dimensions Concourse
Forgot to say I'll be very interested to hear how your new window experience goes. BTW, Motion Windows is well known in the boating world - I'd guess they do good stuff.
I have the single pane windows. I have thought about getting new windows and making them dual pane. On the other hand I like how light these are and how I don't have to worry about "snakes" (but then you won't with new windows either - I guess they used to use vacuum which is why they suck in but now they use a gas).
I also didn't want to lose the "solar bronze" mirror tint, which I really like. I thought I had heard that didn't exist anymore. If it does I'm interested.
Oh, one last thing: If I got a new driver's side window I would see if I could get either the forward section to also slide open, or maybe instead make the break between the panes further forward. I would like more open window by the bed. (If it's in front one has to be aware to not run the water heater with the window open.) I think I'd like that latter way best though: Opening window right by the bed, plus you'd still have the un-screen-encumbered middle section. If I remember correctly, the old 18+ Chinooks did have a window that opened both ways like that on the couch side.
I have the single pane windows. I have thought about getting new windows and making them dual pane. On the other hand I like how light these are and how I don't have to worry about "snakes" (but then you won't with new windows either - I guess they used to use vacuum which is why they suck in but now they use a gas).
I also didn't want to lose the "solar bronze" mirror tint, which I really like. I thought I had heard that didn't exist anymore. If it does I'm interested.
Oh, one last thing: If I got a new driver's side window I would see if I could get either the forward section to also slide open, or maybe instead make the break between the panes further forward. I would like more open window by the bed. (If it's in front one has to be aware to not run the water heater with the window open.) I think I'd like that latter way best though: Opening window right by the bed, plus you'd still have the un-screen-encumbered middle section. If I remember correctly, the old 18+ Chinooks did have a window that opened both ways like that on the couch side.
1999 Concourse