Sure power 135001 where to get one

[Goodlife]

After working all those years the wife and I retired and bought the long awaited RV. We bought a chinook from a fellow across the country who advised it was in perfect working order, low miles, etc. So we fly in to pick up our new purchase and like most things, it was not quite what was described. Here we were miles from the airport and working with a complete jerk, so we decided to make the most of the situation and drove the new purchase back across country. One of the missing components was the sure power LVD. I have looked everywhere that I can think of to try and find one to keep the RV original, but have had no luck. If anyone could help me find one I would be very grateful....

Yes I am new to this forum.

[Blue~Go]

Hi Goodlife,

Welcome! Glad to have you aboard.

I think I responded earlier to your same question in another section. Just so you know, typically there are few en ough posts here that we regulars tend to read them all. So I'd say just pick the most likely sub-forum and post it there (even if it doesn't seem like the perfect choice). That said, no problem on posting this one twice.

Sorry to hear the rig wasn't as advertised. That's always disappointing. At least now you are home, and can get things sorted out without the acrimony of dealing with a poor seller. If it's any consolation, what happened to you is not uncommon.

Now, on your LVD. I somewhat mentioned this before, but...

First of all, I will say that Chinook built a pretty good RV (one reason I have one!). But they were not without flaw, AND (more importantly) electrical systems back then (even "good" ones) were a far cry from what is considered good today. In other words, while you are welcome to put it back to original, it's maybe a bit like saying "I bought this old house, and I'd like to find old newspapers and horsehair insulation to put between the walls to keep it original." The house may be a great house, and may have been built to a high standard, but knowing what we know today, few would choose to do it that way. And if it had been removed, one might want to choose something newer to put back. (Not that I don't have respect for old things; but old electrical is not quite the same as an old growth mahogany bar or the like.

I'm not where I have my removed Chinook things stored now, but if you are still looking for one when I am - and if I can lay hands on the LVD - you'd be welcome to it. On the other hand, if you decided to modernize the electrical a bit, you'd be able to get some help and support here.

It might be good (if you want some opinions from the folks here) to document or photograph what you have, in case there was some "reason" why the LVD was removed. In other words, has anything else changed? We have a pretty good idea what things looked like originally, if we know the year and model of your Chinook (you may have said; I can't see that info when I'm typing in this box).

BG

[Blue~Go]

PS:

I should also mention that a lot depends on your use case, and how you feel about replacing things more often, vs. improving the systems.

The use case that Chinook built for, was the former Class A owners who were ready to downsize, could afford what they wanted to buy, and didn't want to "give anything up." Hence you have a small RV, fairly expensive for its day, with all the features of a Class A packed into a small Class C (our 21-footers).

The other part of this use case was the primary use being to travel from RV park to RV park (i.e. you'd generally always be either plugged in or driving). With the possible occasional stop where you'd turn on the generator to make coffee or something.

If this is your use case as well, and if you don't mind replacing house batteries on a regular basis; then the original electrical (while some things such as overcurrent protection could still be improved upon) might work for you. The original charger is not kind to house batteries, so I'd recommend buying cheapish Wal-Mart type flooded cell batteries and plan on replacing them every 1-2 years.

On the other hand, if your use case is something different, or if you prefer updated electrical, then you might want to upgrade. For example my use case is to boondock most of the time, so I needed a more "boat style" system with charging that would be kind to AGM batteries (my choice), battery monitoring, solar that could keep the bank up, etc.

So, along with my saying "old RV electrical is not necessarily the thing to strive to keep original," I should also have mentioned that your use case (or cases) are important too. They may mean the original systems would be fine.

BG

[Goodlife]

Thanks for reply and I was of the mind that the first post was not accepted so that is the reason there are two posts with the same information. We are currently using our rv and should be home in a couple days so I can post the requested pictures. The sure power unit was disconnected and nothing was used to replace it.

[Blue~Go]

I understand. I've had the same thing happen. You aren't sure if the first post "took," so you try again, and then you end up with multiples. Oh well, we can work around it

Can you say the year and model of your rig? That'll help us to know what it was like originally, as there was a set way the electrical system went together for each year/model.

Will be interesting to see what's there instead. You may already know this if you know it's missing, but the LVD (if you have a 21' rig that's, say, 1997-2004 or so - if not then this may not be accurate) is under a little "triangle" shaped box that's at the base of the pillar that's at the forward end of the couch. This LVD basically has three purposes:

1) It works as a "power post" to join some of the battery/load wiring.

2) It works as a "roundhouse" for some of the smaller wiring that does the special functions (self-jump start, turn house power on buzzer, etc.)

3) It works as an LVD (albeit that's not the best way to monitor your house bank's power level if you want battery longevity plus no surprise lack of power).

Here's to a good trip the rest of the way. I think I can speak for all of us when I say that if you'd like to post any photos of your new baby, we're all suckers for a Chinook photo

BG

[Goodlife]

Back from the last trip for the foreseeable future and I thought I would post the information about the chinook rv we have been enjoying the last several months with many enjoyable experiences. If I can get this electrical situation figured out we have no regrets on our purchase. I think it would be safe to say we will staying in rv parks or at least have electrical power available at our kids house. It is a 1995 on a ford chassis with just over 40000 miles on the clock and in good shape. We put new tires on it and a new flat screen tv inside. The rest of it seems to be in pretty much original condition but I did take the original decals off as for the most part they were pretty faded.

The sure power unit that was removed form behind the drivers seat is pictured leaving a mess of wires when they took the unit out. Needless to say the control panel above the drivers seat is lifeless after the sure power was removed.. There are two wires in the battery area that are capped off conspicuously, so I assume they are part of the system as well. Any advise on what would be the best way to take care of this concern, will be greatly appreciated.

[kdarling]

Did the previous owner explain at all about the wiring?

A 1995 Chinook didn't usually have an LVD. What engine do you have, btw?

Edit: oops, now that I look at the photos, it's clear that while it might have a 1995 Ford chassis, it's carrying a late 96 onward model year Chinook house body on the rear. What state was it originally registered in? (Some states ignore the Chinook model year, and only go by the chassis date. You could actually have a 96 or 97 Premier, by Chinook model year. Did it come with a manual with a year on it? Or perhaps still have a build sheet in the rear closet? Also, on the passenger door, is there a build plate with a year?)

A big clue will be if you show a picture or give details on the switches you have above your driver position. Assuming they're stock, that is. Which ones are there will help us debug your situation.

Which I don't understand yet, sorry. Do you have power in the rear? Just from external 110v AC source? Or does battery power work too?

Also, how many house batteries do you have, and where are they located? One under the hood, or two in the side compartment behind the driver door? The reason I ask, is because your rig seems to be one of those built during a big changeover period (96-97), and Chinook was known to mix and match parts and wiring methods during that time. Especially with a Premier.

Also, do you know if the house batteries are good?

Thanks!
Kev

[Blue~Go]

Basically to echo what Kev said. In 1997 (although there can be exceptions to everything), the electrical design was updated. The new design had the LVD behind the driver (in corner by forward end of couch on pillar), the switches over the right shoulder of the driver (at least on Concourse, but I think on Premier too), and the Surepower 1315 under hood. Also the house batteries in the compartment underneath (outside door) the water heater.

Prior to 1997, the system was different (but no need to go into that if you have the 1997-on system).

I can think of a few reasons to remove parts of it, but we can't know the specific one ... yet. Likely it can be sussed if you are willing to do some sleuthing. Folks here will be happy to help as long as you keep coming back with info/photos/results of your latest experiment, etc.

Given your usage pattern, you likely can get along with the stock system. I would then just buy cheap, flooded cell batteries and plan on replacing them every year or two (the charger isn't kind to them). No need for a full on boondocking system if you are not boondocking, etc.

So... let's see what you have, and get to figuring

PS: Do you have a copy of the manual? Starting in 1997, Chinook did quite a good job of documenting the various systems. If you have that system, you may be lucky. They did also document prior systems, but not as well. If you go to the "Reference" sub-forum, I uploaded a copy of the 1998 manual, which I think would be similar to the 1997 if you do have that era system. I think there are some earlier manuals too, which may help in figuring out what you have.

[Goodlife]

I don't seem to always get the reply to post, so I will try again to answer the questions about the sure power unit that was disconnected when I purchased the chinook in the not too distant past.

When I bought this unit the owner who was just flipping it said he thought it was a 1996 but the title said it was a 1995. I got no documentation or manual with the unit and I can find no plate on the passenger door jam. It is powered by a 360 engine with an overdrive transmission. It has new dual battery's right behind the drivers door and everything in the back seem to run from that source when not hooked to to an external 110 plug in. I have no issues with the unit as a whole, I am just concerned that the sure power was disconnected and several cut wires are exposed with no connections. I will attach some photos of the panel above the driver and the empty space behind the drivers seat.

We have grown to really like this RV and it is not uncommon for people to ask us about it in our travels.

[Blue~Go]

Sounds to me like you have a "pre-engine-family-change" chassis (i.e. '95 or '96) but that it was built as a 1997 Chinook Premier. Or at least, maybe a late '96 (?). Reason I say that is that it sure looks like you have the 1997-newer style electrical system, but yet you have an engine that last came in a 1996 from Ford. If you take a look at the electrical drawings in the 1998 manual in the reference section, I think you may find it similar to your rig (as it is the 1997-newer system that is shown).

I think 1995 was the last Ford official year for the amber taillights, but then I looked at a 1997 Premier that WAS a 1997 (had the V10 engine that just started coming in 1997) but it had the amber taillights. So apparently Chinook had a stockpile of cutaway chassis taillights.

The switch panel over driver's shoulder is just like in my '99. Only difference is I have all the blanks filled by switches; but I think that's because it's a Concourse (Premier was "lower" model; Concourse was "upper" model -- of course they both rock ).

Your batteries are just where mine came on the '99 (Concourse has a slide-out tray, but otherwise same place). LVD footprint looks just the same, same location.

The Ford sticker you are looking for would be on the driver's door jamb, not passenger's.

I have heard of the LVD's malfunctioning during certain electrical operations (involving doing work but not disconnecting batts or etc.). Maybe that happened and so flipper just removed it (or prior owner).

I can see why you would want it back, but I'm also thinking about what are the consequences of not having it there. Just as an exercise.

1) It provided a "power post" where the large red wire (6AWG in my rig) came from the batteries below, then went back to charger and loads (they use the same wire to do both things, hence the light and buzzer on the over-the-shoulder panel). Looks like maybe I see a blob of red electrical tape there? Might want to check that joint - you don't want a bad connection and a bunch of resistance.

2) Small wires came off it for things like boost start, the "store" switch over shoulder (allows most but not all house power functions to be shut off in storage), and the buzzer to remind you not to have in store while charging with generator, etc.

3) LVD function. Although it may have been a "horse already out of the barn" level that it warned you at.

4) Was also a power post (basically a good/official joint place) for the ground wire.

So, options:

1) If I can lay hands on my old LVD you are welcome to it. That would be in a month or so.

2) Buy the newer one I listed the part number for. I could look at the manual more closely if you think you will do this. My guess is it has the same functions plus some better ones (I see the voltage for LVD is adjustable, for example, but only skimmed the brochure).

3) Wire in some new things and use it a bit differently.

In the meantime I would AT LEAST pull the tape off those joints in the large wires. You don't want those to just be taped together! At minimum you could buy a couple of power posts and use those (they have good connections plus you can affix them to something). Even a bolt would be better than just tape (not saying it's just tape, but I would look!)

Glad you are happy with your Chinook. I, too, get lots of comments and questions from people. I bet many of us do. It's a good looking rig and a great size that's just a wee bit bigger than a van but not huge.