Just installed this to replace my broken/rusted license plate holder. I think mine is factory, but it looks like it may have been replaced before. Probably not the safest spot for it with the ladder right there...
Used a plastic razor blade & soapy water to get most of the funk off. The remaining caulk/goop came off with mineral spirits.
Only problem is the bolts are too long, so I had to bend the ends of the plate bracket out, and then bend back parallel with the fiberglass. So this is sort of the view looking down: _/¯¯¯¯¯¯\_ Quick fix that was better than cutting stainless machine screws...
And I used butyl tape.
Former owner of a 2000 Chinook Premier, V-10, with no Interior...
Changing out the license plate with my new one. The PO had screwed his plate INTO the fiberglass! since as you say, the bolts are too long. He used long drywall screws. Anyway, so now I have a nice new frame and plate, securely attached to the holder, and yep, the bolts are too long. I will try to bend the holder like you did. I hope it's not so old that it will break, but if it does, at least now I know where to get a replacement.
2000 Ford E-350 415CI/6.8L V-10 Triton Superduty 4X4 Chinook Concourse XL Club Lounge
Astrodokk wrote: January 3rd, 2019, 4:05 pm
The PO had screwed his plate INTO the fiberglass! He used long drywall screws
Geez, Louise, is there no limit to stupidity?! Gawd. (Sorry, calming down now...deep breaths.)
On the long fasteners - I do vaguely remember that. I think I may have put them on with the heads on the inside? I'll have to look tomorrow.
Later: Found a photo so I could be lazy and check right from the couch No, I put them the usual way around with the nuts on the backside, but I think I used very short screws from my stainless fastener stash. I also remembered that the left side of the plate can contact the body by the door if you don't slide it all the way to the right.
I think I’m going to have to use shorter bolts or cut the ones I have. If I bend the plate holder like in the d ample above, it will make the holes move in narrower and won’t line up with the holes in the plate. Time to get out my cutter.
2000 Ford E-350 415CI/6.8L V-10 Triton Superduty 4X4 Chinook Concourse XL Club Lounge
Astrodokk wrote: January 3rd, 2019, 10:54 pm
I think I’m going to have to use shorter bolts or cut the ones I have. If I bend the plate holder like in the d ample above, it will make the holes move in narrower and won’t line up with the holes in the plate. Time to get out my cutter.
When I replaced mine, the included bolts were about 1/16" too long. I just put a fat washer under each head.
Scott: You have a knack for coming up with simple, straighforward solutions that are nevertheless not hokey. They're the type that seem obvious once you read them, but, of course, aren't.
Mine were about half an inch too long, so I went to auto store and bought a kit that had several bolts in there. I was able to use the shortest ones so it’s all good now, but the light doesn’t work.
Will check ground and change bulb first, before investing in the direct replacement LED one Amazon sells.
2000 Ford E-350 415CI/6.8L V-10 Triton Superduty 4X4 Chinook Concourse XL Club Lounge
Blue~Go wrote: January 5th, 2019, 3:45 pm
Scott: You have a knack for coming up with simple, straighforward solutions that are nevertheless not hokey. They're the type that seem obvious once you read them, but, of course, aren't.
Thank you for that! Much appreciated
Astrodokk wrote: January 5th, 2019, 4:46 pm
Will check ground and change bulb first, before investing in the direct replacement LED one Amazon sells.
Yeah, speaking of grounds, they can frequently be the culprit. I was helping my buddy fire up his dead truck the other day, and this was the first thing I checked. (had to share)
Blue~Go wrote: January 6th, 2019, 11:43 am
I don't see anything wrong.
I am very impressed! As you all know, it is a proprietary metal finish called TSUR (Tuscon Sunset Umber Raw). A bit time consuming to do, but it looks like it was very nicely applied!
2000 Concourse dinette, on 1999 6.8L Ford E350 Triton V-10 Chassis
No, I put them the usual way around with the nuts on the backside, but I think I used very short screws from my stainless fastener stash. I also remembered that the left side of the plate can contact the body by the door if you don't slide it all the way to the right.
